Friday, August 14, 2015
We left London on Friday, August
14 for Mallorca (Mallorca is Spanish
Catalan; Majorca, the English spelling), the largest of Spain’s Balearic
Island chain; (the other members being Ibiza and the lesser known Formentera
and Menorca). Like most other Mediterranean isles; the Balearic’s have been
contested and fought over for thousands of years: Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians,
Romans, Moors, Turks and even Mussolini’s Fascists all took their turn. In the
13th century the Catalans settled here; their dialect still
predominates.
Mallorca (and Ibiza even more
so) had gotten a reputation for cheap package tours and stag and hen parties
gone out of control; so we approached the trip with some caution. But we have
travelled before with friends Annie and Joël, and they highly recommended our
planned accommodations – we were in their seasoned hands.
Our British Airways’ flight was
good from Heathrow to Palma, the Balearic’s capital city. Clearing customs and
luggage retrieval went smoothly and we were soon in our Hertz Opel Meriva for
the twenty minute drive around the Bay of Palma to the Cap Rocat Hotel in Cala
Blava. The hotel and grounds were converted into a hotel from the former
complex of the Spanish military battery of Cap Enderrocat. They were built
between 1898 and 1930 to defend the port of Palma, although this strategic
vantage point has served as a watchtower over the bay for many centuries.
The property is hard to
describe; most of the fortifications were dug into the sandy chalk hillsides of
the landscape; with wide swaths of cut pathways connecting everything – so the
29 or so suites are a bit dark and confining, although very chic. The exterior architecture
is soft yellows, flowing white cotton, torches and candles; with palms stabbed
here and there, cedars standing sentry - a distinct Moorish feel. We checked
into suite #44 after a quick stop at the pool to say hello to Annie and Jöel
who had arrived a few hours earlier.
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| Hotel Cap Rocat |
Later that evening we met them
for drinks at the outside bar near reception and then we all had dinner at the hotel’s
Sea Club Restaurant above Queen’s Cove. Thankfully we had a table under cover;
a sudden and strong rainstorm hit shortly after we were seated; scattering other
unprotected guests all seeking some shelter. After a walk back to our room up
the carved out military pathways we were quickly asleep.
Saturday, August 15, 2015
The weather forecast looked
particularly bleak for the next few days; very uncharacteristic for August in
the Med. We awoke to rain and a dark gray sky and had breakfast in the room.
The foursome decided to take a short 40 minute drive to Sóller, north on the
coast from Palma. Lunch was at the Jumeirah Port Sóller Hotel and pleasant. It
was then a visit to Sóller’s waterfront and Plaça d’Espanya; we watched the
iconic wooden paneled narrow gauge train pull in to the quayside station from
its long winding journey.
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| Sóller's Narrow Gauge |
Back to the car still dodging
raindrops, we headed south on the twisting but beautiful coastal Ma-10, terraced
stone hillsides everywhere, to the small village of Deia. Continuing on to the
lovely mountain town Valldemossa; forever linked to the French novelist George
Sand and Polish composer Fréderic Chopin – both part time residents. After
finding a place to park, we all toured the expansive Real Cartuja de
Valldemossa, a royal residence and from 1399, a Carthusian monastery packed
with interesting local artifacts. We then travelled back to Cap Rocat;
eventually having dinner again at the Sea Club. The fresh sea bass grilled and
filleted was excellent, along with a local white wine, Ribas. Everyone crashed
to bed about midnight.
Sunday, August 16, 2015
We were up to a more typical
sunny morning. We spent the day at the pool; stunning views to the sea and a tranquil
peace enveloping us. Judith and I read, partaking in both lunch and dinner with
our friends at the Sea Club. The day was a preview to heaven, except for my
Internet bandwidth headaches – god’s helpline was busy!
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| Cap Rocat's Pool |
Monday, August 17, 2015
Bad weather returned with a
vengeance. After breakfast we were off to Palma under heavy rain and struggled
to find parking. We waited in line under our umbrellas, shoes soaked and pant
legs soggy, to enter the magnificent Palma Cathedral. On the bones of the
mosque of Medina Mayurqa, a new cathedral was finished in 1587. Early in the 20th century, the famous Antonio Gaudi created a new high altar, the Baldachino; a
wrought iron canopy incorporating lamps, tapestries and a multicolored
crucifix. Somehow this does not visually interfere with the exquisite 36 foot
stain glassed rose window dating to the 16th century. The whole Gothic
edifice is a startling but refreshing attack on the senses.
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| Gaudi's Altar |
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| Palma's Cathedral |
We journeyed back to Cap Rocat,
still under a heavy rain and had a late lunch at the bar. We met Annie and Joël
and drove back to Palma (thankfully no rain) for aperitifs at the boutique Hotel
Can Alomar overlooking the fashionable Passeig des Born; later a nice alfresco
dinner of paella at Caballito de Mar. We had made the best of a rather dreary
day.
Tuesday, August 18, 2015
A hopeful sunny start when we
rose was extinguished by ten, replaced by threatening cloud cover. We were off
after breakfast to Andratx, a small and sleepy town in a valley of almond
groves on the southwest coast of Mallorca. Its port, five kilometers away, is a
different story. Here, in a protected bay, luxury yachts are moored snugly and
equally lavish villas dot the adjacent hillsides.
The rain continued unabated. Our
next stop was to La Granja, a possessió,
or private estate from the 18th century, just outside the small hill
village of Esporles. Once a convent, it is now the home of the Segui family who have opened it as a public venue. Think of a crazy and eccentric aunt you might have and where she might live if suddenly wealthy. The gardens are haphazard affairs, caged birds, goats and other more exotic creatures are combined with follies and strange water features. If the seven dwarfs wandered past us I wouldn’t have been startled. The house is equally bizarre – music alternating betweenThe Marriage of Figaro and a
Muslim call to prayer. The dreary weather only added to the eeriness.
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| La Granja |
Not looking to head back to the
hotel quite yet, we revisited the charming town of Valldemossa and took in the
Saint Bartomeu Church. It was then back to Cap Rocat; arriving about five.
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| St. Bartomeu |
We met Annie and Joël for drinks
and dinner; tonight at Rocat’s gourmet Fortress Restaurant for a five course
tasting menu. We were not disappointed.
Wednesday, August 19, 2015
The weather is forecast to
improve; we have one more day of so-so cloudiness – at least no rain. Our
friends opted for a short excursion to Portals Nous, just past Palma; but we
decided to camp at the pool with our books. We went to lunch at Sea Cliff about
one; Annie and Joël returned and joined us a little after we had sat down. All
were back to the pool until six; the weather was as advertised, mostly cloudy
with an occasional wink from the sun.
Dinner was outside at the Sea
Cliff; I had very nice beef tenderloin in lieu of fish tonight. We also partook
in a wonderful white, Belondrade y Lurton, from the Rueda region and verdejo
grape. Judith and I had met the Lurton family at a wine tasting at the RAC.
There was a star filled sky as
we walked back to our suites.
Thursday, August 20, 2015
Finally we woke to blazing sun
and perfectly blue sky with temperatures forecast at 86⁰F! Our breakfast
arrived; Joël had finally “trained” the kitchen to provide us uncut crusty
baguettes that were wonderful, the yogurt with honey divine.
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| Palma Cathedral's Exterior |
We got to the pool by ten and
had a fantastic three hours of relaxation, reading and swimming. At a bit after
one we traveled back to Palma to see things not
from under an umbrella – what a difference on a pleasant day. Parking on
Avinguda d’Antoni Maura we had a quick bite and then walked around the
cathedral’s exquisite exterior. After, it was to the Basilica de Sant Francesc
and its expansive cloister. The refined Gothic style and the Baroque altarpiece
were inspiring. From here it was a short walk to the Banys Árabs, a well
preserved 10th century Moorish bath. We finished with the Palau
Reial de l’Almudaina, the royal family’s palace in the Balearic’s. The
admission price was high and the visit not very interesting. The drive back to
the hotel was without traffic.
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| Banys Árabs |
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| Palma Cathedral's Exterior |
That evening, we drove back into
Palma with Annie and Joël. Drinks were at the Can Alomar’s terrace and dinner
followed at their Asian themed De Tokio a Lima Restaurante, also alfresco. The
food and wine were excellent, the service didn’t quite match.
Friday, August 21, 2015
The weather remains perfect. We
were down to the pool by ten and had a relaxing morning of reading and
swimming. The view from the pool over the Bay of Palma is breathtakingly
beautiful. At 12:30 we returned to the room, changed and were off to visit Portals
Nous, northwest of Palma. Its attraction is a glitzy new port, very big, with
plenty of shops and restaurants. We had a nice lunch at Spoon Restaurante
looking out to a field of pleasure boats.
Back to the hotel, it was to the
pool until about six. Dinner with our friends was at the Sea Cliff.
Saturday, August 22, 2015
The beautiful day was the
perfect excuse for laziness and hedonistic sun worship; and we found religion
came easily.
Before lunch, we looked at the
new Sentinel suites (three in all), wonderful spaces carved into the rocks with
very private terraces and plunge pools overlooking the indigo stained Bay of
Palma – very dramatic and one of a kind. We left the pool reluctantly after
six.
The four of us had drinks on the
upper terrace of the Fortress Restaurante, overlooking a wedding party in the
courtyard. It was then down to Sea Cliff for our final dinner here.
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| Judith, Annie, Joël and me |
Sunday, August 23, 2015
We woke to a slightly overcast
morning and it was time to check out of Cap Rocat and move to our next location.
At noon we were heading north
about 60 kilometers toward Pollença and to Son Brull Hotel. This Relais &
Chateaux establishment is contained within a 40 acre farm; a magnificent
natural environment of olive grove, vineyard; as well as almond, lemon and orange
trees. Located at the foot of the Sierra de Traumuntana mountain range,
overlooking the sea in the distance, this 12th century former Jesuit
monastery has 23 rooms and suites, a pretty pool and highly regarded
restaurant. The austerity of the original building has been softened with a
cool, modern design, but totally in keeping with the spirit of the place. We
checked into suite #37, spacious and very nice, a view to the Bay of Pollença.
We settled in and took a leisurely walk around the grounds.
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| Hotel Son Brull |
Dinner was on the terrace and
did not disappoint. Our leg of lamb was cooked flawlessly, tender, flavorful;
the 2008 Torrent Negre Pla i Lleevant, a local Mallorcan red, the perfect
accompaniment.
Monday, August 24, 2015
After a very nice breakfast, we
spent the day at the pool swimming, reading and relaxing; only interrupted by a
tapas lunch. The weather was perfect, sunny with a light breeze to cool the
skin. Dinner was a bit disappointing; we all had herb crusted hake that was
bland and overdone. Desserts were a helpful consolation.
Tuesday, August 25, 2015
It was only partly sunny today.
After breakfast we were out sightseeing, our first stop the nearby Pollença. It
is a picturesque small town, its Plaça Major a bustling hub of cafes. There is
a wonderful church, Nostra Senyora dels Angels, from the exterior a gothic
temple built in the mid 1700s, but the interior contains some beautiful baroque
altars. We also climbed up the 365 steps to El Calvari, a hilltop chapel with
an interesting gothic cross, carved in wood.
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| 365 Steps to El Calvari |
Back to the car, we headed to
the Port of Pollença and then on to the twisting Ma-2210 out to the most
northern point of Mallorca, Cap de Formentor and its lighthouse. The jagged
cliffs looked like the upright sharpened gray flints of some long ago giants;
scrub pine and the occasional mountain goat to stop traffic. We got back to Son
Brull about three, had late tapas and relaxed at the pool.
Dinner was alfresco with our
friends.
Wednesday, August 26, 2015
After a typical but very nice
buffet breakfast we were off again on a hot and sunny morning. Our first
destination was the Santuario de Lluc, 20 kilometers southwest on the narrow
Ma-10. This remote site is high in the hills of the Sierra Tramuntana.
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| Basilica's Main Altar |
It is a 17th century monastery
and shrine to La Morenta, or Black Virgin; 13th century folklore recounts
that a young shepherd boy found the statue on a nearby hilltop. The Basilica
has an imposing stone façade but wonderful baroque interior. Behind the apse is
a small altar by Gaudí displaying the Black Virgin. The adjacent museum is
uninteresting except for the collection of Mallorcan paintings; once again I
was impressed by this local artistry. The wonderful impressionist painter of
the isle, Coll Bardolet, donated 236 of his works depicting Mallorcan scenes.
There are also fine samples of other impressionists, Guillem Gill’s watercolors
a standout.
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| Guillem Gill's watercolors |
Next we were off on the
torturous Ma-2141 to Sa Calobra. Although a short distance away, it is a 45
minute trip contorting through Puig Major; the route plunges over 2,500 feet in
13 kilometers. At one point, the road turns 270⁰, looping under itself (road
engineers call this a “knotted tie”). While trying not to careen off a
precipice or having my left side mirror snapped off by a passing vehicle; the
views of the seemingly hand carved gray cliff sides and towering peaks were
spectacular. Intrepid goats sometimes block the tarmac.
The cove of Sa Colabra is a
light emerald bay tucked among the rock face. Further along the promenade there
are two tunnels leading further into the bay’s round pebble beach and the end
of the Torrent de Pareis, a 3.3 kilometer gorge beginning in the peaks of the Sierra
Tramuntana range. After a quick bite, we back tracked our route, arrived back
to the hotel after three and were quickly into the pool.
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| Sa Colabra Bay |
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| Torrent de Pareis meets the sea |
Dinner was on the hotel’s
terrace; after a bit of TV news we were off to sleep.
Thursday, August 27, 2015
The weather remained perfect;
mid eighties ⁰F with enough breeze to keep things fresh. We had a full day at
the pool; reading, relaxing, nodding off occasionally, and some guilty swimming
afterward. The pool area is a bit quirky, but it has a certain genuine charm –
one might think you were at a villa in Tuscany. Our lazy behavior was only
interrupted by lunch.
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| Son Brull - Poolside |
We had booked dinner at Hotel Castell
son Claret in Calvía; west of Palma and about a 50 minute drive from Son Brull.
Their restaurant, Zaranda, is one Michelin starred, the young chef Fernando
Pérez Arellano working hard to please. The food was inventive and tasty; the
local 2011 Cumas red, a blend of mostly Mantonegro grape with a 5% splash of
Syrah, a pleasant and inexpensive surprise. It had a nice peppery taste and
fruity finish; it reminded me of Drouhin’s Willamette Valley pinot noir.
Joël navigated us back to the
Son Brull in light traffic.
Friday, August 28, 2015
Our last full day here remained
bright and sunny with a nice breeze. It was more of the same, a repeat of
yesterday. Dinner at the hotel was another disappointment.
Saturday, August 29, 2015
We were up early and bid our
friends Annie and Joël a safe flight back to Luxembourg; they were leaving
before us. We had a last swim and some sun before we packed and checked out. It
was an easy ride back to Palma airport; we arrived early so we had to loll in
the lounge for a few hours. BA 0450 was delayed about an hour, but we had a
good flight nonetheless. Masood had us to the flat by about eight.
Mallorca was a pleasant surprise
and we will most likely be back. The island was very clean, its people upbeat
and helpful; there was much to see historically and scenically and our lodgings, pleasant and one-of-a-kind types of places.
