The Loyalty Problem

I think this country, perhaps the world, has become so dysfunctional because we forgot how complex the concept of loyalty can be. It seems a simple and unambiguous word. “Loyalty” is basically defined as: “the quality of giving or showing firm and constant support or allegiance.” In these last years I believe we have paradoxically become more loyal, but with too little thought or consideration of the recipient of our fealty, whether this be a person, institution, or idea.

Today’s more intense loyalty has come at the expense of judgment. Loyalty was never a substantive virtue alongside wisdom, courage, justice, and temperance. Loyalty requires prudence and vigilance in our assessment of the object of this support.

Blind and unconditional loyalty is unhealthy to relationships, families, leaders, institutions or causes because it removes judgement. Circumstance must guide decisions to be loyal. This is not easy work, it takes understanding, deliberation, evaluation, and study; it requires nuance. We must ask “what is the effect of my loyalty to this or that?” Remember, it is not true that good leaders foster intense loyalty, they inspire and promote principled behaviour. It is the bad leader who stresses loyalty above all else.

Context must be used in the calculus of “where does my loyalty lie?”  This isn’t hypocritical, it is moral, and it requires inner conviction. By way of example, on a small issue or minor piece of legislation a congressman or congresswoman might vote with his or her party; however, he or she should not thoughtlessly have allegiance to party for a destructive major legislative initiative or for entering a badly thought out foreign intervention. A worker might let a minor misbehaviour go but not a systemic fraud. Loyalty without context is idolatry. Loyalty without context has given us tyranny over the ages.

Bad leaders and corrupt institutions enforce loyalty over morality. Sadly, loyalty has become binary in our country today. James Carville, the acidic pundit, has said you can’t be loyal to us without “stickin’” it to them. In current times when a politician, educator or your neighbour tries to be non-binary, they are trashed as traitor by their side and unprotected and exploited by the opposite side.

We have been on this slippery slope for a decade or more, so this conduct has become normative. Partisanship is not the problem; it is the symptom of loyalty gone awry. We need to get our loyalties back to a healthy state. We all need to speak up, teach our children, talk with friends of different persuasions, and call out loyalty tests as malign. Whistleblowers need protection not disparagement.

Re-examining our concept of loyalty will go a long way in bringing back a more civil society.

 

"The Apprentice" 2.0

 

Donald Trump is a narcissist and emotionally unhinged, but in my opinion, he is very much a calculating individual. I think the President is confident he will lose the election and is now auditioning for his next act – producing a pilot if you will. The debate was his demo reel.

Think about it. If he were truly seeking re-election, even he would make a bit more effort to woo the undecided. But in the last month or two, Trump has done the exact opposite. He hosts super-spreader rallies, fails to condemn the violence of far right groups, mocks the CDC, the FBI and the FDA, continues with the unsupported claims of election fraud – the list goes on. He has turned up the rhetoric exponentially pandering to the base, not even disavowing Proud Boys while on stage. Watching the debate, he is cunning. This is not political Tourette’s Syndrome; this is a man honing his act, trying to make his future audience love him.

I think Trump’s calculation is that he can land on his feet and create a more virulent “Apprentice” vehicle, married to the “Bannon-sphere,” well to the right of Fox. Sadly, there is an audience: the 30-35% of ardent MAGA worshipers.  Trump’s only real commercial success was that of entertainer and promoter, bringing in almost $500 million with “The Apprentice” and it’s merchandising. He desperately needs a second act because he is deeply indebted. I’m sure the new gig will be a blockbuster for him; and continue to sow discord well after his term ends. I do not think he is ideological. His first and foremost concern is his self-interest. He does not have a “True North.” Trump is counting on a reincarnation to bail him out. That’s his game plan; country be damned. Let’s see what happens. 

I wonder what the name of the new show will be. I have a suggestion: “A ME RICA”.

Biden's Bridge

 Joe Biden, born November 20, 1942, is less than seven years older than me. Yet he seems of a different generation. Pondering this a bit more, I realize that Biden is not technically part of the Baby Boomers (1946 – 1965), as am I.

Biden is in the tail end of the Silent Generation, a small cohort within the birth years of 1928 – 1945. Parents of the Silent Generation were in the Greatest Generation (1901 – 1927); these mothers and fathers had lived the Great Depression and the World Wars. Biden exhibits an echo of his parent’s generational attitudes. He was of the time before meritocracy fully took hold of us, leaders were more humble stewards of position and power; perhaps feeling less entitled and less confident.

Our last four presidents, Clinton (born 1946), G.W. Bush (1946), Obama (1961) and Trump (1946) have been Boomers, governing for almost three decades (1993 – 2020). Of late, much of the progress and achievements of these Boomer governments have lost their lustre. More than a touch of hubris has been exposed.  The last of these, Trump, was a gargoyle of Boomer privilege, laying waste to his inheritance and making a mockery of merit.

Biden somehow comes across as “older”, with more grounded experience than I think I have. But this doesn’t really make much sense. Only 8% of living Americans are older than me; Biden’s percentage is 5%, so not a big difference. There must be something else at play. It is also no coincidence that the runner up for the nomination is also a Silent Generation member, Bernie Sanders, born in 1941. Please know that I’m not wishing to give the Silent Generation sainthood; they had their sins: segregation, misogyny – and let us not forget Vietnam. No rose coloured glasses are being worn.

But here is my point. Many studies have found that crowds have a certain uncanny wisdom, and we may be seeing this play out in the current election cycle – I hope so. Perhaps Biden is the bridge connecting the past Silent Generation’s humility and art of compromise with the hopes and dreams of the younger voting cohorts of late Boomers, Generation X, Millennials and Generation Z. Maybe this election is about slowly moving us sixty and seventy year olds out of the picture, and out of power. 

I’m hopeful that Biden and Harris put together an idealistic yet grounded group of smart younger people to find fresh solutions to climate, China, race, gender, and income disparity. I’m happy to put the last years of my life into their hands as they create a better future.

But first, let’s defeat Donald Trump on November 3.

Croatia Sailing: July - August 2020

Our second half of the season was more of a vagabond affair. After getting back to Šibenik on July 5th from our southern trip, we had a few days of bad weather with very strong winds out of the northeast. Tilen and I did a minor repair on the skipper's cabin hatch drain, we got in some provisions but generally lazed about. And on the 8th Tilen left for an extended weekend to attend his mom's birthday, Cornelia went to a multi-day safety course and Judith and I decided to spend a few days ashore so checked into one of the hotel's villas.

While at the hotel I chipped a tooth that required a quick repair at a dentist in Vodice, but finally on the 16th we motored to nearby Kakan, had lunch aboard, and then were off to Tijat and Tijascica Bay for the night. Of course, dinner was at Spirito's - I had two appetizers: a nice shrimp tempura followed by beef tartare. In the morning we headed back to Šibenik.

After another day in the marina we took the long trip to Vis, motoring for the first two hours and then sailing on a broad reach in a steady wind of 16 - 20 knots; we used the traditional rigging for the genoa and MISSI performed admirably. We secured to a buoy in Kut and took the Williams to dinner at the lovely Villa Kaliopa, surrounded by it's 16th century gardens. After a glass of wine aboard, it was easily to sleep.

Villa Kaliopa

In the morning I did some maneuvering practice before leaving under sail to St. Clement Island and the Bay of Vinogradiŝĉe. While setting the shorelines I unfortunately ran the Williams over the line, which was sucked into the jet intake; wrapping around the shaft. Tilen and I worked on dislodging it for hours but to no avail. This certainly put a damper on our evening dinner with Tilen's family at Zori's. They had taken a charter for a few weeks and we had planned to meet here. That evening I dozed off annoyed for hacking the shorelines!

We arranged to meet the Williams dealer in Strobrec Cove, south of Split. We anchored, had lunch and rendezvoused with the technicians who towed our stricken tender to their base. Luckily they were able to remove the line and we had our Williams roaring back to us in about an hour. It was then motoring again to our overnight off Drevenik Veli. We anchored and laid out shorelines (I swam to shore this time). Cornelia prepared a nice dinner onboard.

Drvenik Veli

The following day, July 22nd, we had a swim and some sun. In the afternoon we were off to Rogonzncia, taking a buoy off Kopara, deep in the bay and away from the marina. It was a peaceful spot. In the morning  Tilen took us ahore for a long walk around the rest of the bay and after lunch motored back to Šibenik, once again disappointed by the wind. We tied up in a strong crosswind, cleaned up, had dinner and were soon asleep. The next two days we were in our marina; weather was not cooperating.

On July 26 we were off again, with a nice sail on a close reach to Žirje and Stupica Vela, taking a buoy for the night. Lunch and some swimming followed, but the day turned cloudy with a strong west breeze. We left early the next morning for the Kornati Chain and the island of Ravni Zakan, anchoring nearby the pontoon of Zakan Restoran.We had an excellent dinner and some interesting people watching since there were a number of large motor yachts tied up at the restaurant's dock.

Zakan Restoran

Zakan Restoran
Judith's "no pictures" face

We had a nice morning in the cove with some swimming and sunbathing. It was then off motoring to Murter Island, anchoring in the shallow bay off the marina. We sometimes plan our interrary around our stomachs - we were once again dining at Fine Food Murter, greeted as usual by the lovely proprietor Gracia. 

The next day, we had lunch off nearby Cape Mala Zecia and afterward motored up the narrow channel between Pasman Island and the mainland to Biograd na Moru and the Kornati Marina. Dinner was onboard; another wonderful Cornelia creation.

We took about a week off to attend to some dental issues, fun getting old! It was then back to S/Y MISSI. I arranged our flight back to London, but we still had a bit of time to take some nice day trips.

There was a good sail west on a broad reach in a fresh breeze to Mali Borovnjak off Kakan Island. We stopped for a nice lunch but decided not to go for a swim; a bit windy. At 3:30 we upped anchor and motored home, encountering some rain on the way. Luckily we avoided the strong gusts that were popping up and safely got onto our pontoon in the marina without incident. 

Mali Borovnjak

On our last weekend, we had a nice trip to Žirje Island and its tranquil bay of Stupica. We had a bit of sailing, then motored for the balance of the trip. A lunch followed aboard, and some sun and swimming afterward. Around four, we left the bay and headed northeast on a broad reach in 16 - 20 knots of wind. It was a great last sail, MISSI pushing over 9 knots at times. We were through the Šibenik channel around six, stopped at the fuel station to replenish some diesel and tied up the yacht for the last time this season.

S/Y MISSI's Croatian flag off Stupica

It was a wonderful 9-weeks and 752 nautical miles of adventure on the water and away from the worries coivd-19. We left for London on August 10 - back to real life on land.

Croatia Sailing: June 8 - July 8 2020

This wasn’t the summer I was expecting as we celebrated the New Year at the Four Seasons in Budapest. But by March and with the outbreak of covid-19, our plans for 2020 were in ruins. We weren’t sure if or where we could travel, or if there would be a sailing season at all. Thankfully, the stars lined up for us and we reached Croatia on June 8 and boarded S/Y MISSI in Šibenik that evening.

The yacht was in perfect order thanks to Tilen and Cornelia, the side curtains we had ordered for the cockpit looked neat and crisp. It was wonderful to be back.

This post will cover our exploits for our first month, but we expect to be here until at least mid-August. We had two main outings: a quick four-day trip north, and then a longer 19-day journey south to Croatia’s border with Montenegro. 

NORTHERN TRIP
After an unexpected repair to the freshwater water pump we got underway on June 11. Our first port of call was the northern end of Murter Island, anchoring in the lovely bay near Marina Hramina. It was a pleasant first day with a bit of sailing but mostly motoring these 21 nm ("nautical mile = ~1.15 miles"). Dinner was onshore at Fine Food Murter, always good. Judith and I realized we hadn’t had a restaurant meal since March 4!

S/Y MISSI - Murter Island

The next day it was off to the close by bay off Cape Ovnja for lunch, then a great sail tacking up to Zut Island, weaving our way through small islands to Podrazanj Cove and the docks of Festa Restaurant. We had a lively dinner there, along with obscene desserts and too much wine.

The next day, Saturday the 13th, we took a walk along the coast toward ACI Marina Zut. By 11 we were off motoring to Kornati Island, cutting through the very narrow and shallow Passage Proversa Mala and then mooring in the well protected Mir Cove. After lunch Judith and I took the Williams to shore and visited Jezero Mir in Telašćica National Park, a salt water inland lake. About 10 minutes into the 40 minute walk, we encountered a snake. From this point on, Judith armed herself with a large rock. The scenery was nevertheless stunning. The balance of this wonderful day was spent swimming and sunbathing. Dinner was on board.

Jezero Mir - Salt Water Lake

Judith - Armed with her Rock!

Telašćica National Park

We were up to a nice morning and an early start. After some hesitation, we decided to take the long trip back to Šibenik. Rain was forecast for tomorrow, and strong Bora winds for Tuesday. We left Telašćica National Park by the wider channel past the Svjetionik Lighthouse and MISSI was out to the open Adriatic by 10:00. We sailed on a broad reach southeast in choppy seas with the Kornati Islands to our port side for about two hours and then found a good line through the islands north of Lunga and Vela Smokvica into the calmer channel. Lunch was under way. In better wind, we set a course west to the north of Tijet Island and then southwest along it’s western coast. The wind continued to veer in favour of our course for the entire sail. We dropped sails before entering St. Stephen’s Channel and were at the marina around five o’clock. We logged about 100 nm.

Svjetionik Lighthouse

For the next few nights Judith and I stayed at the adjacent D-Resort Hotel awaiting a break  in the weather. It also allowed for a needed generator service.

Here is a link to an interactive map of our southern trip from our onboard system (pretty cool):

https://web.sentinelmarine.net/shared/route/28d7eacb8f52499e87f2bee19c1a83db 

SOUTHERN TRIP
On June 17 we started our trip south, first sailing southeast close hauled in a fresh breeze to Primoŝten where we anchored and had lunch. We then backtracked on a broad reach northwest to our first overnight off Tijet Island, taking a buoy in the sheltered harbor of Tijascica Bay. We took the Williams to Spirito's Summer Place for a reunion with Gregor, the affable manager, and his marvelous food and wine. After full bellies and much laughter, we were safely back on board. A very good start!

Judith & Me - Spirito's Summer Place

After breakfast we were off southeast on a broad reach. The wind was particularly good for two hours or so, but the last hour it died and left only the heavy following sea. We took a respite from this for lunch, stopping in a protected cove off Ražanj. It was then back out to the sea for the 2-hour motor to Solta Island and Maslinica – to the Marina Martinis Marchi. We did get out for a walk along the riva before dinner at the hotel; we all shared a nice St. Pierre (John Dory) and had desserts. A last glass of wine on the boat and we were soon asleep.

Marina Martinis Marchi

Waking to a nice morning, we noted that S/Y MISSI was christened one year ago in Canet, France - happy 1st birthday! After breakfast and walk, we motored in calm wind to the southern side of St.Clement Island, the largest in the Pakleni Chain, and the small but busy Bay of Vinogradišče. We grabbed a wonderful buoy and set our shorelines. The water in the bay is warm and crystal clear; swimming and sunbathing followed shortly after arrival. We took the Williams to dinner at Toto’s.

Strong Bora wind was forecast for the next few days, so it was decided to stay here until the weather improved. The next few days were lazy ones: we walked over to the north side of the island and Palmižana Marina, lingered over coffees, read, swam and bathed in the sun. Cornelia made a wonderful dinner one of these nights, beef tenderloin accompanied by a magnum of 2009 Korta Katarina Plavac Mali “Ruben’s Private Reserve” (483/486); nice jazz playing over our sound system. 

On our other two evenings here we dined at Zori Restaurant, a real delight and surprise - excellent food, professional staff and a sophisticated abieance. A little rain eventually came on our last night, making way for clearing weather so we could move on.

Approaching Zori Restaurant

Sunset - Bay of Vinogradišče

On Tuesday, June 23, we retrieved the shorelines and were on our way again, motoring three hours southwest to Vela Luka on Korĉula Island. We explored the town while Tilen cleaned up the yacht. Vela Luka has a nice “U” shaped seafront, or "riva" in Croatian. We were berthed for the night at the new Korkyra Marina, some parts not still not open because of the virus. We stopped for drinks at their outdoor bar; a nice dinner was on board. 

Vela Luka

We were up early and had another long walk. Before leaving, Tilen and I set up our new light wind foresail, a Code 0, along with it's electric furler. Motoring about an hour around the southeastern end of Korĉuka, we anchored in Tri Luke for lunch. Afterward, our plan was to sail to southwestern Korĉuka for our overnight and the Code 0 performed well on it's first outing, moving us at 6 knots in the 9 - 10 knot breeze. The forecast wasn’t favourable for our original choice for our overnight, so we backtracked about an hour west to Zaklopatica Bay on the northern coast of Lastovo Island with its two mooring buoy system. It's a very pretty and protected cove; we had stayed here last year.  

The New Code 0

We were up early and planned for a long motoring day. Our destination was Cape Vratnicki on the easternmost part of Mljet Island. We had lunch on the way and stopped at Odysseus Cave for a swim inside while Tilen stayed aboard and circled. 

Odysseus Cave - Mljet Island

Afterward, we continued to Vratnicki, getting there about four. The mooring buoy was not the best, but with some help from an inept but friendly swimmer, MISSI was secured. Tilen and I eventually strung another line to shore from the stern. The cove was worth the effort, a beautiful and tranquil spot; Judith and I went for another swim. Dinner was ashore at Konoba Stermasi, a family run restaurant. We had some nice appetizers of local cheese and swordfish carpaccio; followed by goat peka – excellent. 

Vratnicki Cove - MISSI's Spreader Lights

We were off early motoring again east southeast with calm winds to Cavtat with lunch underway. This will be our most southerly destination for this trip, any further we would be entering Montenegro. We anchored with shorelines to the riva. Cavtat is a small, peaceful bay and town and Judith and I decided to walk the bay on this very hot late afternoon. Dinner was at Bugenvila Restaurant, a Michelin mentioned eatery; we had been here five years ago. The food was excellent but the service from the husband and wife owners was somewhat lacking; I am sure covid-19 has made them cautious about hiring. 

Approaching Cavtat

In the morning we took a long walk around the peninsula, both saying this could be somewhere we could live. Afterward, we met Claudio, an affable Italian owner of the S/Y “Mrs Seven,” a 100’ Southern Wind sloop tied up a few spots away from us. He was extremely interested in MISSI and we gave each other tours of our respective boats. He was  a character out of a Hemingway novel, completely full of himself, but a delight nonetheless. 

We left Cavtat without issue heading back northwest, skirting Dubrovnik for a quick photo shoot and then stopping for lunch and a swim at Lopud Island. Continuing northwest, our destination was Slano on the mainland and the ACI marina.  Dinner was at Gastro Vista Restaurant, high in the hills overlooking the tranquil Luka Slano. It is a family affair, grandfather picked us up, father,Toni, was owner-chef, wife and daughters, servers and clean up staff. The food and wine were fresh and wonderful. Covid-19 has been bad for their business. They only opened for us, since they had no other guests. Toni, a big guy, drove us back to the marina, all the while expressing his political views on the US, the virus, and our current demonstrations for "Black Lives Matter" - well informed to say the least.

Tilen, Cornelia, Judith & me
View from Gastro Vista Restaurant

Slano

We left Slano and motored a short one-hour to a nice bay between Przina and Olipa Islands for some sun and an early lunch. It was then on to Mljet Island’s north coast, we took a buoy at Prozurska Bay. It was an idyllic spot with the sea over 25°C. Judith and I were in and out of the water, with more sunbathing under a cloudless sky, cooled by a pleasant breeze. Cornelia made a nice shrimp pasta for dinner; too much wine again!

Next morning we were up and off to Korĉula. We opened the Code 0 for a while, but by noon winds became calm and variable and we motored for the last part of the journey. We anchored in Korcula Bay for a swim and some sun – it was another hot day, over 30°C. Early evening we motored the short way to ACI Marina - Korĉula for our overnight. Dinner was in the old town at Lesic Dimitri's Restaurant, now a 1-Star Michelin. We had the five course tasting menu - it was divine.

Korĉula Town

Lesic Dimitri Palace

We left ACI marina and motored west along the Peljeski Canal, past the tip of Pelješac and into open water. Eventually the wind picked up to 12 knots out of the west, but we had less than an hour to our destination. We arrived to Šćedro Island off the south coast of Hvar Island. We were to this lovely isolated island last July. We anchored in the same cove and took two lines ashore to secure the stern. It was then sun and swimming in 25°C clear water for the balance of the afternoon. Dinner was aboard - this is my favorite spot in the Adriatic - serene cannot half describe it. 

Šćedro Island - Perfect!

After a last swim in Šćedro and taking in shorelines we motored west southwest. Eventually cruising along the picturesque southern and rocky coast of Vis Island, we took in the views of its many caves and old military fortifications. MISSI took a buoy in the bay of Komiza, a bucolic town on the western side of the island. Dinner was in town at Konoba Barba, roosterfish peka – excellent. After dinner I accidentally dropped the safety key for the Williams into the water along the dock. Embarrassed I felt obligated to take a dunk over the side to try to retrieve it. I missed it but a waiter snagged it with a fishhook - problem solved.

Going Back to MISSI - Slightly Wet

View of Komiza from Konoba Barba

We left Vis under motor with little wind. We took a break on Hvar Island in Duga Bay for lunch and a swim. We continued on to Starigrad, a deep bay on the northern side of Hvar. It is a lively town, we moored along the riva. After a bit of a walk, dinner was on board and we had an early evening.

Riva in Starigrad

We left Starigrad after our walk and had a long day beating northwest, at times under reef, in a 12 -14 knot breeze. We were over eight hours tacking our way up the coast, arriving to Marina Frapa in Rogoznica after 7:00 in the evening. For me it was a wonderful day of sailing. Dinner was uninspired at the marina restaurant and after another glass of wine aboard, sleep came easily.

After breakfast we walked the riva to the old town and church Our Lady of the Chapel, its cornerstone laid in 1776. Then we were off to Tijet for our overnight, a much shorter motoring trip. Arriving in Tijascica Bay, we took two buoys because of MISSI's length. It was then swimming and sun. Dinner was at Spirito’s and wonderful,we had a different table with a nice view of MISSI. I had tempura shrimp as appetizer and a main course of grilled tuna, deliciously rare as I like it.

S/Y MISSI - Tijascica Bay

We were up to a nice day and got an early start back to Šibenik, less than an hour away. Weather was expected to deteriorate in the afternoon, with high winds expected. Before heading into our berth, we visited the fuel station to replenish MISSI’s diesel. Finally, with lines buttoned up, we had a light lunch aboard. By 3:00 p.m. the expected wind arrived. Dinner was also onboard, a nice steak and shrimp combination.

19 days out in total; it was a wonderful adventure south. I now have more memories locked away to be unpacked some cold evening this coming winter.

Here is a link to an interactive map of our northern trip from our onboard system:

https://web.sentinelmarine.net/shared/route/f573538cc6d94924b7d494b29477db40