This wasn’t the summer I was expecting as we celebrated the New Year at the Four Seasons in Budapest. But by March and with the outbreak of covid-19, our plans for 2020 were in ruins. We weren’t sure if or where we could travel, or if there would be a sailing season at all. Thankfully, the stars lined up for us and we reached Croatia on June 8 and boarded S/Y MISSI in Šibenik that evening.
The yacht was in perfect order thanks to Tilen and Cornelia, the side curtains we had ordered for the cockpit looked neat and crisp. It was wonderful to be back.
This post will cover our exploits for our first month, but we expect to be here until at least mid-August. We had two main outings: a quick four-day trip north, and then a longer 19-day journey south to Croatia’s border with Montenegro.
NORTHERN TRIP
After an unexpected repair to the freshwater water pump we got underway on June 11. Our first port of call was the northern end of Murter Island, anchoring in the lovely bay near Marina Hramina. It was a pleasant first day with a bit of sailing but mostly motoring these 21 nm ("nautical mile = ~1.15 miles"). Dinner was onshore at Fine Food Murter, always good. Judith and I realized we hadn’t had a restaurant meal since March 4!
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| S/Y MISSI - Murter Island |
The next day it was off to the close by bay off Cape Ovnja for lunch, then a great sail tacking up to Zut Island, weaving our way through small islands to Podrazanj Cove and the docks of Festa Restaurant. We had a lively dinner there, along with obscene desserts and too much wine.
The next day, Saturday the 13th, we took a walk along the coast toward ACI Marina Zut. By 11 we were off motoring to Kornati Island, cutting through the very narrow and shallow Passage Proversa Mala and then mooring in the well protected Mir Cove. After lunch Judith and I took the Williams to shore and visited Jezero Mir in Telašćica National Park, a salt water inland lake. About 10 minutes into the 40 minute walk, we encountered a snake. From this point on, Judith armed herself with a large rock. The scenery was nevertheless stunning. The balance of this wonderful day was spent swimming and sunbathing. Dinner was on board.
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| Jezero Mir - Salt Water Lake |
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| Judith - Armed with her Rock! |
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| Telašćica National Park |
We were up to a nice morning and an early start. After some hesitation, we decided to take the long trip back to Šibenik. Rain was forecast for tomorrow, and strong Bora winds for Tuesday. We left Telašćica National Park by the wider channel past the Svjetionik Lighthouse and MISSI was out to the open Adriatic by 10:00. We sailed on a broad reach southeast in choppy seas with the Kornati Islands to our port side for about two hours and then found a good line through the islands north of Lunga and Vela Smokvica into the calmer channel. Lunch was under way. In better wind, we set a course west to the north of Tijet Island and then southwest along it’s western coast. The wind continued to veer in favour of our course for the entire sail. We dropped sails before entering St. Stephen’s Channel and were at the marina around five o’clock. We logged about 100 nm.
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| Svjetionik Lighthouse |
For the next few nights Judith and I stayed at the adjacent D-Resort Hotel awaiting a break in the weather. It also allowed for a needed generator service.
SOUTHERN TRIP
On June 17 we started our trip south, first sailing southeast close hauled in a fresh breeze to Primoŝten where we anchored and had lunch. We then backtracked on a broad reach northwest to our first overnight off Tijet Island, taking a buoy in the sheltered harbor of Tijascica Bay. We took the Williams to Spirito's Summer Place for a reunion with Gregor, the affable manager, and his marvelous food and wine. After full bellies and much laughter, we were safely back on board. A very good start!
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| Judith & Me - Spirito's Summer Place |
After breakfast we were off southeast on a broad reach. The wind was particularly good for two hours or so, but the last hour it died and left only the heavy following sea. We took a respite from this for lunch, stopping in a protected cove off Ražanj. It was then back out to the sea for the 2-hour motor to Solta Island and Maslinica – to the Marina Martinis Marchi. We did get out for a walk along the riva before dinner at the hotel; we all shared a nice St. Pierre (John Dory) and had desserts. A last glass of wine on the boat and we were soon asleep.
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| Marina Martinis Marchi |
Waking to a nice morning, we noted that S/Y MISSI was christened one year ago in Canet, France - happy 1st birthday! After breakfast and walk, we motored in calm wind to the southern side of St.Clement Island, the largest in the Pakleni Chain, and the small but busy Bay of Vinogradišče. We grabbed a wonderful buoy and set our shorelines. The water in the bay is warm and crystal clear; swimming and sunbathing followed shortly after arrival. We took the Williams to dinner at Toto’s.
Strong Bora wind was forecast for the next few days, so it was decided to stay here until the weather improved. The next few days were lazy ones: we walked over to the north side of the island and Palmižana Marina, lingered over coffees, read, swam and bathed in the sun. Cornelia made a wonderful dinner one of these nights, beef tenderloin accompanied by a magnum of 2009 Korta Katarina Plavac Mali “Ruben’s Private Reserve” (483/486); nice jazz playing over our sound system.
On our other two evenings here we dined at Zori Restaurant, a real delight and surprise - excellent food, professional staff and a sophisticated abieance. A little rain eventually came on our last night, making way for clearing weather so we could move on.
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| Approaching Zori Restaurant |
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| Sunset - Bay of Vinogradišče |
On Tuesday, June 23, we retrieved the shorelines and were on our way again, motoring three hours southwest to Vela Luka on Korĉula Island. We explored the town while Tilen cleaned up the yacht. Vela Luka has a nice “U” shaped seafront, or "riva" in Croatian. We were berthed for the night at the new Korkyra Marina, some parts not still not open because of the virus. We stopped for drinks at their outdoor bar; a nice dinner was on board.
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| Vela Luka |
We were up early and had another long walk. Before leaving, Tilen and I set up our new light wind foresail, a Code 0, along with it's electric furler. Motoring about an hour around the southeastern end of Korĉuka, we anchored in Tri Luke for lunch. Afterward, our plan was to sail to southwestern Korĉuka for our overnight and the Code 0 performed well on it's first outing, moving us at 6 knots in the 9 - 10 knot breeze. The forecast wasn’t favourable for our original choice for our overnight, so we backtracked about an hour west to Zaklopatica Bay on the northern coast of Lastovo Island with its two mooring buoy system. It's a very pretty and protected cove; we had stayed here last year.
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| The New Code 0 |
We were up early and planned for a long motoring day. Our destination was Cape Vratnicki on the easternmost part of Mljet Island. We had lunch on the way and stopped at Odysseus Cave for a swim inside while Tilen stayed aboard and circled.
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| Odysseus Cave - Mljet Island |
Afterward, we continued to Vratnicki, getting there about four. The mooring buoy was not the best, but with some help from an inept but friendly swimmer, MISSI was secured. Tilen and I eventually strung another line to shore from the stern. The cove was worth the effort, a beautiful and tranquil spot; Judith and I went for another swim. Dinner was ashore at Konoba Stermasi, a family run restaurant. We had some nice appetizers of local cheese and swordfish carpaccio; followed by goat peka – excellent.
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| Vratnicki Cove - MISSI's Spreader Lights |
We were off early motoring again east southeast with calm winds to Cavtat with lunch underway. This will be our most southerly destination for this trip, any further we would be entering Montenegro. We anchored with shorelines to the riva. Cavtat is a small, peaceful bay and town and Judith and I decided to walk the bay on this very hot late afternoon. Dinner was at Bugenvila Restaurant, a Michelin mentioned eatery; we had been here five years ago. The food was excellent but the service from the husband and wife owners was somewhat lacking; I am sure covid-19 has made them cautious about hiring.
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| Approaching Cavtat |
In the morning we took a long walk around the peninsula, both saying this could be somewhere we could live. Afterward, we met Claudio, an affable Italian owner of the S/Y “Mrs Seven,” a 100’ Southern Wind sloop tied up a few spots away from us. He was extremely interested in MISSI and we gave each other tours of our respective boats. He was a character out of a Hemingway novel, completely full of himself, but a delight nonetheless.
We left Cavtat without issue heading back northwest, skirting Dubrovnik for a quick photo shoot and then stopping for lunch and a swim at Lopud Island. Continuing northwest, our destination was Slano on the mainland and the ACI marina. Dinner was at Gastro Vista Restaurant, high in the hills overlooking the tranquil Luka Slano. It is a family affair, grandfather picked us up, father,Toni, was owner-chef, wife and daughters, servers and clean up staff. The food and wine were fresh and wonderful. Covid-19 has been bad for their business. They only opened for us, since they had no other guests. Toni, a big guy, drove us back to the marina, all the while expressing his political views on the US, the virus, and our current demonstrations for "Black Lives Matter" - well informed to say the least.
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Tilen, Cornelia, Judith & me
View from Gastro Vista Restaurant |
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| Slano |
We left Slano and motored a short one-hour to a nice bay between Przina and Olipa Islands for some sun and an early lunch. It was then on to Mljet Island’s north coast, we took a buoy at Prozurska Bay. It was an idyllic spot with the sea over 25°C. Judith and I were in and out of the water, with more sunbathing under a cloudless sky, cooled by a pleasant breeze. Cornelia made a nice shrimp pasta for dinner; too much wine again!
Next morning we were up and off to Korĉula. We opened the Code 0 for a while, but by noon winds became calm and variable and we motored for the last part of the journey. We anchored in Korcula Bay for a swim and some sun – it was another hot day, over 30°C. Early evening we motored the short way to ACI Marina - Korĉula for our overnight. Dinner was in the old town at Lesic Dimitri's Restaurant, now a 1-Star Michelin. We had the five course tasting menu - it was divine.
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| Korĉula Town |
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| Lesic Dimitri Palace |
We left ACI marina and motored west along the Peljeski Canal, past the tip of Pelješac and into open water. Eventually the wind picked up to 12 knots out of the west, but we had less than an hour to our destination. We arrived to Šćedro Island off the south coast of Hvar Island. We were to this lovely isolated island last July. We anchored in the same cove and took two lines ashore to secure the stern. It was then sun and swimming in 25°C clear water for the balance of the afternoon. Dinner was aboard - this is my favorite spot in the Adriatic - serene cannot half describe it.
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| Šćedro Island - Perfect! |
After a last swim in Šćedro and taking in shorelines we motored west southwest. Eventually cruising along the picturesque southern and rocky coast of Vis Island, we took in the views of its many caves and old military fortifications. MISSI took a buoy in the bay of Komiza, a bucolic town on the western side of the island. Dinner was in town at Konoba Barba, roosterfish peka – excellent. After dinner I accidentally dropped the safety key for the Williams into the water along the dock. Embarrassed I felt obligated to take a dunk over the side to try to retrieve it. I missed it but a waiter snagged it with a fishhook - problem solved.
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| Going Back to MISSI - Slightly Wet |
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| View of Komiza from Konoba Barba |
We left Vis under motor with little wind. We took a break on Hvar Island in Duga Bay for lunch and a swim. We continued on to Starigrad, a deep bay on the northern side of Hvar. It is a lively town, we moored along the riva. After a bit of a walk, dinner was on board and we had an early evening.
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| Riva in Starigrad |
We left Starigrad after our walk and had a long day beating northwest, at times under reef, in a 12 -14 knot breeze. We were over eight hours tacking our way up the coast, arriving to Marina Frapa in Rogoznica after 7:00 in the evening. For me it was a wonderful day of sailing. Dinner was uninspired at the marina restaurant and after another glass of wine aboard, sleep came easily.
After breakfast we walked the riva to the old town and church Our Lady of the Chapel, its cornerstone laid in 1776. Then we were off to Tijet for our overnight, a much shorter motoring trip. Arriving in Tijascica Bay, we took two buoys because of MISSI's length. It was then swimming and sun. Dinner was at Spirito’s and wonderful,we had a different table with a nice view of MISSI. I had tempura shrimp as appetizer and a main course of grilled tuna, deliciously rare as I like it.
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| S/Y MISSI - Tijascica Bay |
We were up to a nice day and got an early start back to Šibenik, less than an hour away. Weather was expected to deteriorate in the afternoon, with high winds expected. Before heading into our berth, we visited the fuel station to replenish MISSI’s diesel. Finally, with lines buttoned up, we had a light lunch aboard. By 3:00 p.m. the expected wind arrived. Dinner was also onboard, a nice steak and shrimp combination.
19 days out in total; it was a wonderful adventure south. I now have more memories locked away to be unpacked some cold evening this coming winter.
Here is a link to an interactive map of our northern trip from our onboard system:
https://web.sentinelmarine.net/shared/route/f573538cc6d94924b7d494b29477db40
