Sailing: Croatia - 2022

 It is hard to believe this is our fourth season in Croatia aboard S/Y MISSI. We arrived June 2 and after an overnight in the D-Resort we moved onto the yacht. We had a new hostess this year. Rebecca was an American living in Zagreb, working summers on the Adriatic. She would be with us for our first two-weeks, and after four-weeks with our long-time hostess Cornelia, back with us for our final two weeks.

It was a strange couple of months. The weather was exceptionally hot and muggy, temperatures in the mid-thirties Celsius, + 95°F. Wind patterns were more like winter, breezes strong and gusting out of  the northeast, north and northwest. Sea temperature at times reached 29°C. Dry conditions caused many brushfires, one very close to Šibenik, our home port. The following morning MISSI was covered in ash. We experienced a real-world reality check on global warming.

Brush Fire Close to Marina

FIRST LEG (June 4 – 18)

After spending June 3 finishing our provisioning, we dropped our lines motoring west 21 nautical miles (nm.) with lunch underway, to Žakan Island, one of the southern islands of the Kornati archipelago. Our new anchor buoy deployed successfully but our recently purchased walkie-talkie system was a disappointment – technology, oh well. Dinner was at Konoba Žakan, excellent as usual. The next days had us to Murter Island and Tijat Island’s Luka Tijašćica, where Judith and I took our first swim of the year.

We returned to Šibenik on June 7, experiencing some trouble with our Navionics+ system giving some false wind and depth readings. Dinner that night was at Pelegrini, a wonderful alfresco Michelin stared dining experience. Wind and bad weather conspired against us for the next four days, so we remained in port. While there, Tilen and I sorted out our onboard navigation system glitches. 

June 12 had us off in a brisk north wind through St. Anthony’s Channel on a wonderful sail of 21 nm. to Opat, another island in the Kornati archipelago. In wind gusting to 25-knots, sails second reefed, MISSI performed admirably, reaching speed of 10 knots. Judith settled into the cockpit’s leeward side and enjoyed the voyage, I kept thinking this indeed is why I purchased this yacht. The next day we were off north-easterly to Žut Island and Podrazanj Cove, and the following day to Mir Cove in Telašćica National Park.

Full Moon - Opat Island

On June 15 we motored southeast passing the towering Tajer Lighthouse along the long coastline of Kornat Island, dropping anchor off Žakan Island. We had another pleasant dinner at Konoba Žakan, despite some noisy revelers nearby. Back to MISSI, all decided that we should have an impromptu evening sail to Tijat Island, rather than leaving in the morning. It was a peaceful two-hour motor west and halfway there we were greeted by a large orange tinted full moon rising out of the western horizon. Our buoy pick up was uneventful and after a cognac we said goodnight around midnight. And another item was added to the repair list, we discovered our starboard side navigation light was out.

The following morning, we motored the short distance west to Šibenik and secured MISSI in her berth at the marina. The next day Tilen left for his week off and Rebecca said her goodbye and was off to her next charter. She had done well by us for these first two weeks. That evening and the following day we had MISSI to ourselves, and on June 19 closed her for the week. We were heading by car to Mali Losinj for the next four or five days.

MALI  LOSINJ (June 19 – 24)

We had a six-hour journey. It was first motorway on E71 for 195 kilometers, then down the curving D23 to the Adriatic and the slow moving E65 to the Krk Island Bridge. We traversed Krk and reached the Valbiski Ferry Terminal to catch the 12:15 to Cres Island, a 25-minute crossing. It was another hour travelling south on Cres on D100, then after crossing the small bridge to Mali, we arrived at Hotel Alhambra on Čikat Bay, Mali Losinj at 2:00 pm.

Hotel Alhambra

We spent the next three days here relaxing on our sunbeds, swimming and reading after our morning walk. The dinners at the hotel’s Restaurant Alfred Keller were excellent, the ambiance more tranquil than you can imagine.

On June 24 the alarm woke us at 6:30. After breakfast, packing and check out we were off to catch the 10:00 Merag – Valbiska ferry. We retraced our route back to Šibenik and didn’t meet the heavy traffic we had expected. Cornelia was aboard MISSI to greet our arrival. It was uplifting to see her again – the old “crew” returned. Tilen arrived shortly thereafter, as did our wine order.

SECOND LEG (June 25 – July 22)

June 25 was occupied with provisioning, and Tilen and I also updated the B&G Navigation System to the latest release. I was hopeful this will keep things working properly for the rest of the season. The following morning, we were off to Tijat Island, taking a buoy overnight. Of course, we had dinner at Spirito, hosted by the ever effervescent Gregor. Our plan was to head south, with stops at Šolta Island’s Maslinica Marina, Palmižana Marina on St. Clemet for two nights, and then at anchor in Uvala Luka off Loviste on the western tip of Pelješac Peninsula.

On July 1 MISSI motored southeast through the Pelješac Strait for 7 nm., passing the beautiful townscape of Korčula before entering the renovated ACI Marina around noon. Dinner was on the terrace of the wonderful Restarant Dimitri Lesic. The food was a bit disappointing but still good at this Michelin-one-star, the wines remianed impeccable.

Approaching Korčula Town

Still in the marina, we were up to another very hot day and took a walk south along the shoreline. Late morning, we taxied to the Bire Winery in Lumbarda for a tasting. It is family owned: father, mother and three sons; and had a nice charcuterie with our wines. We bought some Grk and one bottle of prized Defora. Lunch was aboard and the balance of the afternoon was spent reading. In the evening, we took a water taxi to a wine pairing dinner at Korta Katarina Winery and Hotel across the strait in Orebić. Our host, Goran Tanić, gave us a cellar tour before our meal on the winery’s terrace overlooking the Adriatic. Everything was superb, Goran the perfect master of ceremonies. After dinner, we bought some wine and had a visit of the iconic hotel. A water taxi back to the marina, one last glass in the salon and it was to bed.

Conny, Tilen Dan & Judith - Korta Katarina Winery

On July 3, I took MISSI out of the marina, and we motored 24 nm. southeast to Lastovo Island’s Skrivena Luka on its southeastern side. Lunch was underway on this three and a half hours trip. We had wonderful views of Lastovo’s coastline and the majestic Rt Struga lighthouse as we entered through the narrow opening to the bay and took a buoy for the night. The following morning it was the Fourth of July. On the Fourth four years ago, Judith and I left Split on our first voyage aboard our new yacht, so it was an anniversary of sorts.

Rt Struga Lighthouse

In the morning, we motored 22 nm. northeast in a moderate sea to Korčula Island’s eastern end. Lunch was underway, we took a short swim stop in Uvala Plitvine before moving on to Vela Luka’s Marina Korkyra for our overnight berth. Vela Luka is a buzzing port town with a long riva that follows it’s deep and narrow harbor. After breakfast the following day, we cast off motoring northwesterly for 20 nm. to Pakleni Islands and Uvala Vinogradišće. Our buoy reservation was not handled well, and we ended up on a buoy off Laganini Resturan, not ideal. We delayed our swim until this busy area of the bay calmed. Dinner was at Zori Resturan and excellent.

It was July 6. After breakfast there was a debate as to our itinerary for the next few days. A strong north wind was predicted for Friday and into Saturday, so we decided to make the long trip back to Šibenik, a 48 nm. trek to the northwest. We left at 10:00 and motored for about two hours before hoisting sails on a close reach in a 10-knot breeze. The wind strengthened to up to 18-knots and MISSI reached speed of over 10-knots. The wind continued to veer forcing us to make five tacks along the Primošten coast. We dropped sails on our approach to Zlarin Island in 20-knot headwinds and then motored to St. Anthony’s Channel and into port. Berthing went well, in all it was a seven and a half hours journey. We were all tired so just had a pizza at Alpha Grille, some wine aboard and crashed to bed.

Starboard Beacon - Entrance to St. Anthony's Channel

We had a few idle days in the marina. This allowed Tilen a quick visit to Slovenia to see his brother who had been involved in a serious motorcycle accident. The north wind continued, gusting to 35 knots at times, but MISSI’s lines held well. On July 11 we left port for a few days south, calling on Rogoznica’s protected inner bay and Tijat’s Luka Tijašćica. It was then back to Šibenik, we had friends joining us for four days. On July 15 Stan and Lilla joined us on MISSI, and after a quick orientation we were off northeast to Žut Island’s Podrazanj Bay, on 30 nm. sail on a close reach. Lunch was underway. We all did a bit of swimming and Conny made a wonderful dinner aboard.

In the morning we left Žut motoring south 25 nm. to Tijat Island and Luka Tijašćica. We had a lovely lunch enroute of beet carpaccio with a wonderful, creamed feta cheese dressing. After arrival, we had an afternoon of swimming and sun, Stan and Lilla went to shore for a walk and some snorkeling. Dinner was at Spirito’s Summer Place, Gregor presiding. In the photo below, Conny playfully photoshopped angel wings and a halo on Gregor, but he is anything but a saint! We shared a magnificent, grilled pagar fish, a type of local seabream, accompanied by grilled vegetables and Spirito’s signature truffle potatoes. Starters were tempura shrimp with local sparkling wine. Even the local deer came by to say hello. All were soon off to bed.

Conny, Stan, Lilla, Tilen, Dan & Judith - Gregor (standing)
Spirito's Summer Place

After all of us had a good morning swim, we left Tijat and motored southeast 11 nm. to Primošten and berthed on the end position of the city dock. We had charcuterie in the salon, it was a steamy 33° outside. Dinner was at Konoba Toni, a nice spot overlooking the bay, then a walk up to the fifteenth century hilltop church of St. George and its adjacent cemetery. The sunset views were very nice, and we later took in a local concert in the town’s square. On July 18 we returned to Šibenik, and our friends disembarked to continue their Croatian adventure. It was nice to have had a catch up with them.

We were out for a few more days, returning to our marina on July 21. The following morning was hot and stuffy. Conny reluctantly started packing up for her evening bus back to Vienna and I spent some time on trip planning for our last two weeks. Rebecca arrived at about 17:00 and after introductions, we all went to dinner at the Pool Bar. Returning to MISSI it was another round and some more conversation until Conny left for her bus at 22:15. After Tilen returned from this drop off, all went to bed.

THIRD LEG (July 23 – August 5)

On July 23 I took MISSI out of her berth and over to the fuel station. Then we motored 18 nm. south-southeast  with lunch underway to Rogoznica’ deeper, inner bay and dropped anchor. The following morning, we left Rogoznica under a hazy sky and motored 15 nm. and dropped anchor at Drvenik Veli’s Blue Lagoon. The bay was crowded, and the southwest wind made swimming difficult, but we did have our lunch. At three, we left for Maslinica and berthed at the marina. Once again, the staff placed us on the angled section of the dock, squeezing us next to a 70-foot ketch, for no logical reason. Dinner was a Resturan Sampjer where we had a nice grilled sea bass.

We cast off lines at 11:00 and motored southeast 19 nm. to Pakleni Island’s Vinogradišće Bay and took an excellent positioned buoy with stern lines on the western shore well into the cove. After arrival, we had a nice lunch aboard. I had been experiencing mobile phone problems which unfortunately consumed over an hour with my carrier, but we still had time to get in some pleasant swimming and sunbathing in this very tranquil setting. Dinner was at Resturan Zori and wonderful as usual, we had a magnum of Whispering Angel rosé followed by a bottle of the same. Since we decided to stay in Vinogradišće Bay one more day, we slept a little later. We were out for a swim; it was already another muggy day. Lunch was aboard in the salon and after, we had a visit from the owner of Zori’s and Tilen gave him a tour. He has loved MISSI since first seeing her in the bay four years ago. Subsequently, Judith and I had a glass of wine alone in the cockpit, the balance of the afternoon for us was more swimming and sunbathing. Dinner was a Zori’s again. Judith and I shared a perfectly prepared San Pierre accompanied by whipped potatoes and grilled vegetables.

Our Private Pool - Vinogradišće Bay

One forecast predicted heavy south wind in the morning, so we left Pakleni early setting course for Vela Luka, 19 nm. to the southeast. After motoring for about an hour, we could see a storm building in from the southwest heading toward Vis and Hvar. A few miles from Vela Luka Bay, wind increased to more than 20 knots from the west as the south side of the low passed us to the north. We also got some rain. By our approach to the Korkyra Marina wind had subsided and we docked stern in. After a quick lunch in the salon and some route planning, Judith and I took our walk, the weather still hot and stuffy. Late afternoon the wind became gusty and Tilen, Judith and I struggled to take down the Code-0 and stow it in the skipper’s cabin. Dinner was at Resturan Dalmacija on the riva. Tilen and I had the Captain Jack burger, a strange combination of beef patty, cheese and a thick mushroom sauce. Rain brought us inside halfway through our meal.

After our walk we got an early start motoring southeast to the northwest corner of Lastovo Island, lunch was underway. Then it was a detour to check out Luka Velji Lago for a possible location for the 2023 season. It was a tranquil and pretty cove with Makarac Island in its center. The best spot was Uvala Kremena – crystal blue water lapping the coastline. We were then off to our overnight bay on the island’s southeast, Skrivena Luka, taking a buoy. I needed to get into the water to secure our lines to these problematic buoys. Judith only took a quick dip in. The wind from the south caused an uncomfortable chop in the bay, but we did get in a bit of sunbathing. Reading filled the balance of the day; dinner was in the salon with a dessert of strudel from Tilen’s mom.

On July 29 we left the bay by 9:30 motoring northeast for the southeastern shore of Korčula Island, helped by a good current off our portside stern. Wind was light and variable. We reached Korčula’s Rt Raznjic a bit before noon and I decided to take the inner route among the islets so we could travel  past Badija Island to see its fourteenth century Franciscan monastery. 

Franciscan Monastery - Badija Island

Afterward, we found a good berth in the ACI Marina, we would be here two nights. Dinner took us to Dimitri Lesic, and it was excellent. For main course, Judith and I had the chef’s signature dish, prawn gyoza, with a mousseline sauce, chili, daikon, and sesame. During the meal, we witnessed the annual pomp and ceremony of the procession of St. Todor, or Theodore, one of the patrons of the city, along the Šetalište Petra Kanavelića. Waves of chanting clerics, altar boys and parishioners solemnly streamed past us for almost a half-hour.

We spend the balance of next day reading, mostly in the salon because of the heat. It was then off to an early dinner at another winery in Lumbarda named Zure. It was a simple outdoor place, but we had a nice grilled fish and their lovely wines, notably the “Reventon” Grk sur lie.

The weather forecast was for high west winds in the afternoon, so we got a very early 6:45 start on July 31, motoring west 36 nm. to Pakleni Islands and Vinogradišće Bay. On the voyage, we met some gusts of over 20 knots, first from the north, then the west. Judith and I read for the afternoon with a late swim before getting ready for dinner. Zori Resturan was wonderful as usual; we shared a john dory, and all had their signature chocolate soufflé for dessert.

August 1, the start of another month. We stayed on St. Clement Island, so it was a lazy day of swimming, sun and reading. We had a final dinner at Zori and said our goodbye to Christian, Martin and the owners, Iva and Renato. They graciously gave us a going away gift of a bottle of 2016 Santa Elisabeta.

Restaurant Zori

We left the bay at 9:30 and motored 19 nm. north-northeast heading to Šolta Island’s western tip and Maslinica Bay. It was an uneventful sail except for a short course change to safely pass behind a large tanker heading northwest. We berthed at the private Marina Martinis Marchi and then had lunch. Judith and I were out for a walk, then stopped at the marina’s patio for a bottle of rosé and some ice cream. We read until dinner, which was at the very nice Sampjer Resturan with a backdrop of the setting sun to the west.

Sunset - Marina Martinis Marchi

We left Maslinica motoring northwest 28 nm. to the southern tip of Otok Žirje, with lunch underway. We first tried the bigger Uvala Stupica Vela’s buoys, but none were open, so we motored the short way back to Uvala Stupica Mala and found a buoy in 14 meters. Judith and I went in for a late day swim and an extended time in the soft late afternoon sun. Rebecca made cacio e pepe spaghetti for dinner.

We left Žirje early in calm wind motoring northwest a short 12 nm. to the southern tip of the Kornati archipelago and Vela Smokvica. We took a buoy in the bay. Before lunch aboard, Tilen and I took the Williams and pre-ordered a rhombus for tonight’s peka at Konoba Smokvica. We had a day of swimming, reading and sun in this pretty bay. Dinner was simple and rustic, the service, blasé. Back to MISSI, we managed to drink copious amounts of wine in the cockpit while listening to music from movie soundtracks, Andrea Bocelli and finally, Queen.  It was a raucous night to say the least. We all stumbled to bed very late.

It was our final day on the sea. After breakfast, we motored west in light wind for 14 nm. to Tijat Island and Luka Tijascica and took a bow and stern buoy. Rebecca made lunch aboard and then we enjoyed the water and sun for the balance of the afternoon. The restaurant Spirito’s Summer Place had been in the local news, there was an altercation with a journalist and a court officer on Monday concerning the legality of ownership and operating licenses. The establishment was shuttered by the authorities, so we were up in the air about dinner. Fortunately, Gregor arranged for a delivery to MISSI, so we had a few last portions of shrimp tempura with chili sauce. Gregor stayed for a drink aboard, his usual bubbly self. At 19:00 we dropped our buoy lines, and we were off to Šibenik, a short 6 nm. through St. Anthony’s Channel. I took the yacht to the fuel station, and then berthed her in her spot at G16 and our aquatic adventure came to an end for another year. After a shower, a glass of wine and our goodbye to Rebecca, it was off to bed in the master cabin one last time. We had cruised 738 nm. this season, less than last year’s 1,079.

Judith - Piloting through St. Anthony's Channel

CLOSING UP (August 6 – 8)

On August 6, Rebecca left before anyone was up for her next charter. We made our own breakfast and then started packing up, doing a couple of loads of laundry, sorting through some wine to take back to Budapest and then walked over to the hotel with some laundry. Beds were stripped of bedding and the large cushions from the cockpit were stowed in the starboard cabin. We checked into the hotel about noon, and had lunch with Tilen at the pool bar, then relaxed and read in our hotel room until dinner. Supper was at Art Restaurant with Tilen, after we walked back to MISSI. There was a 70-foot sloop sloppily berthed on our port side, populated with more than a dozen Italians casually enjoying themselves. We left Tilen to cope with them, returned to our room and were soon asleep on terra firma.

On the following morning after our hotel breakfast, we walked over to MISSI and helped Tilen clean out the refrigerator, bring in the remaining cushions and take the trash to the marina’s containers. We said our goodbye to marina staff and returned to the hotel for a quick late-morning cappuccino. Lunch was with Tilen at the pool, then we took in the Bimini, covered the tables, winches and consoles, and moved the last of our stuff to the hotel. Tilen left early, so we said our goodbye before heading up to Art Restaurant for our last dinner here, before crashing to bed. 

On August 8 we were up at 6:30, had breakfast and were on our way to Budapest. The drive went well, although we were delayed at boarder control. We found our Budapest apartment in good order, unpacked and had an early dinner at KOLLAZS. It was good to be home, although part of me was already missing MISSI.