Sailing: July 2021

 On June 28, our Beneteau dealer, Ultra, replaced the motherboard circuit for the salon table, reinstalled the ice maker they had taken out for repair, and solved a minor sink drain problem in the galley. We spent one more night in our marina, all of us having dinner in Šibenik’s old town at Pelegrini, on their wonderful terrace. The food was flawless, but the highlight of the meal was a 2015 Bire Grk Defora, arguably the best white made in Croatia. Only 1,000 bottles per vintage are produced in Lumbarda on Korčula Island, the grk bijeli grapes transformed into a delightful potion of citrus made more complex by its sur lie fermentation. Magnificent!

So, we were set for our next voyage, this time heading north for the Istria Peninsula. We dropped our lines on June 30 and motored out through St. Anthony’s Channel for a lunch stop at nearby Tijat Island, had a swim and some sun before a light meal at Spirito Summer Place – tempura shrimp with a pleasant chilli sauce. It was then three and a half hours northwest to Žut Island, where we took a buoy. Dinner at Restoran Fešta fell well short of the mark. We had some thunder and lightning overnight, but no rain.

In the morning we motored southeast to Ugljan Island and Uvala Lamljana Mala and took a buoy. On the following day we proceeded to a bay on Molet Island off the small village of Brgulje. It was surrounded by unspoiled hills covered in evergreens with the sea fading into turquoise along the shoreline. Other than the quaint town, it was a panorama of pure nature. The overcast sky cleared in late afternoon, Judith and I got in some swimming and sun. Aboard in the salon, we had steak from an area near Tilen’s home in Slovenia, accompanied by roast potato and vegetables, and a magnum of 2009 Korta Katarina Ruben’s Private Reserve Plavac Mali (bottle 205 of 486). 

Our Magnum

The only negative aspect to this very pleasant day was that I banged one of my right toes into a deck fitting, most likely broken. Another injury to add to the list, a bit of medical wrap is all one can really do for toes.

The next day MISSI motored north to the island of Losinj, entering the Northern Adriatic. We took a berth on the public docks of Mali Losinj, the harbormaster and his crew not the most professional we have encountered. Dinner was at the Hotel Alhambra’s Alfred Keller Restaurant and marvelous; one of Judith and my best meals of all time. Our wine selection, a 2015 Santa Elisabetta was a limited production Istrian knock out; a debut wine from the Benvenuti family, one hundred percent Teran. Aged in oak, it was an explosion of savory spice, nuts and dark fruit. Amazing!

Judith, Tilen, Ivana and Me - Alfred Keller Restaurant

We spent another two nights here. Judith and I had pleasant walks along the outer shores of the island and Čikat Bay in particular, where the Alhambra Hotel is located. The well-maintained walkways meander along the water, interspersed with swimming platforms and lined with impressive villas behind walls overflowing with bougainvillea. We were shaded by old growth stone pines laden with rust-colored pinecones and serenaded by a chorus of cicadas. While here, we stopped for a simple lunch at Lanterna Grille on the point of Cape Madona with views to the open Adriatic, and a lunch and another dinner at Alfred Keller Restaurant. In all, Losinj is deserving of a future visit.

Walkway - Čikat Bay

On July 6 we left this lovely island and motored northwest to the Istria Peninsula and  the shallow bay of Soline, sheltered by the small island of Veruda. The water was silted, and we spotted some unwelcome jellyfish, so decided not to take our swim. We had stuffed peppers for dinner onboard, and afterward I was also stuffed.

In the morning we continued motoring up Istria’s western coast, about 20 nautical miles, to the ACI marina in Rovinj. The marina, with its adjacent low slung and modern Grand Park Hotel, was just opened in 2021 and had gotten some excellent reviews. Rovinj is a UNESCO protected city with a rich history, first settled in pre-Roman times. Originally an island, it was connected to the mainland in 1763. Rosinj was under the control of the Republic of Venice for more than 500 years, ending just before the 18th century.

 

Rovinj - St. Euphemia Bell Tower

A warren of cobbled streets seemingly paved to facilitate the breaking of ankles leads to the hilltop church of St. Euphemia, dominating the skyline. This Baroque treasure, completed in 1736, has a bell tower modelled after St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice, ostensibly oversized for the scale of its host city. Perhaps a Trump Tower in its day. We spent the afternoon exploring, stopping before returning to MISSI at a local spot, Maestral, for a glass of wine for me. Judith had a cold beer – unusual! Dinner was at one of the hotel’s restaurants, Laurel & Berry, and I am being kind in saying it was disappointing.

We were staying in Rovinj because our service batteries (eight in all) were showing signs of deterioration and Tilen had arranged for them to be replaced here on Thursday, the 8th. During the day of the repair, we walked in the opposite direction of the old town, along Mulini Beach. After dinner at Maestral we all returned for drinks at Mulini Beach Bar to celebrate our final night.

Mulini Beach Bar - Rovinj

While in Rovinj, we had strong northwest winds and we experienced their aftermath with heavy following seas as we left the shelter of the coastal islands. Waves of one and a half to two meters on our starboard quarter made for an uncomfortable ride and a troublesome helm. We had a long day ahead, 51 nautical miles, heading southeast back to Lovinj. Thankfully, the seas calmed a bit as we rounded Cape Kamenjk, but it was still a tiresome seven hours of motoring. Judith and I decided to check into the Alhambra Hotel and take a day off the boat. We availed ourselves of their wonderful sea deck for a full and peaceful day of sun and swimming. Both lunch and dinner were at Alfred Keller – excellent.

We had a final breakfast at on the hotel’s terrace and came back to the boat. MISSI was shortly underway heading for Molat Island, but before reaching this destination we changed course to Duji Island and Uvala Skarum. We took a buoy in a strong westerly breeze and settled in about three, it was too windy and cool to swim. Dinner was onboard and good, shrimp coquettes with vegetables and a pleasant parmesan sauce.

A potentially strong storm was approaching from the southeast, so we opted to motor to Biograd’s Kornati Marina, a long motoring trip of 38 nautical miles. Before arriving, we stopped for a quick swim break off Galesnjak Island. It was a hot and humid evening; we had an alfresco dinner at a simple local eatery, Konoba Kaciol. The next morning, the Jugo (southeast wind) continued to intensify as the day progressed; it remained sweltering and muggy. Dinner was at a uncomplicated spot in town, Restoran Peperino. 

The wind and rain overnight were less severe than forecast and veered to the northwest. We departed the marina around 11:00 to an overcast sky, motoring and then sailing downwind with only our jib in a 15-knot breeze as we rounded the north-western tip of Tijat. MISSI was on a buoy by early afternoon, and we had some swimming and sun, even Tilen got in the water. For dinner the four of us were back to Spirito; I had shrimp tempura, a nice steak, and cheesecake! In the morning we were up early and underway, arriving to Šibenik by 09:30, ahead of the forecasted strong west wind for later in the day. 

Quiet Moment on S/Y MISSI

We had been out of port for 15 days. Tilen and Ivana took off for a long weekend, and Judith and I once again had MISSI to ourselves.

Here's a link to our trip and ports of call:

https://web.sentinelmarine.net/shared/route/d99480d8c7244e81a67ff1043bf79912

 

Sailing: June 2021

Like last year, Covid-19 was in control of our lives as we attempted to finalize our trip back to Croatia. We hadn’t been out of the UK since our return from sailing last August. During this time, London was a shell of itself, no theatre, museums, ballet, restaurants; nothing but grocery and pharmacy open. I cooked more in that time than I had in the past decade. We had not been back to the States since May 2020, Budapest since January 2020. So, getting to Šibenik and aboard MISSI was a long-anticipated dream. Tilen was waiting for us as we landed at Zadar Airport.

Boarding MISSI, we met our new hostess, Ivana, a Croatian native, whose home base is near Zagreb. Cornelia, our hostess for our first two years, was not able to do this season. We had a small snack, learned a bit more about Ivana and eventually all of us had dinner at Art Restaurant at the D-Resort Hotel. I went to bed happy to be back.

Our Initial Outing

The following morning, we motored to nearby Tijat Island and it’s lively but tranquil Tijašćica Bay and took a buoy. Shortly after, a catamaran came into the bay without much control. The group of Polish men aboard apparently hadn’t much experience getting to and picking up the buoy. We watched their haphazard maneuvering with the helmsman yelling out “gdzie jest boja,” or “where is the buoy?” Luckily, they left after about an hour. We launched our Williams tender to Spirito Summer Place, Grega welcoming us with his usual bubbly humor and always good food. In the morning we motored back to the marina, and I brought MISSI into her berth. Ultra, our dealer, was scheduled to do some work replacing the electronic anemometer, the radar reflector, and removing our ice maker for repair. Dinner was in Šibenik, alfresco, at Restoran Scala, the evening weather still a smouldering 28°C.

A Short Trip

Repairs complete, on June 5 we set off west for the Kornati Chain, these 147 islands form the densest archipelago in the Mediterranean, a palette of pale beige and gray desiccated limestone karst covered sparingly with low-lying shrubs, wild herbs, and pines. Of these islands George Bernard Shaw, in an uncharacteristic outbreak of lyricism, wrote, “The gods wanted to crown their work and on the last day they created the Kornati Islands out of tears, stars, and breath.” 

Kornati Islands

Our destination was Ravni Zakan. Dinner was good on the terrace of Restoran Zakan, the four of us shared a Dentex with grilled vegetables, and all had deserts. After getting back to MISSI, Tilen and I stored the Williams and set up the side curtains for possible rain tomorrow. After another glass of wine, all were off to sleep.

The forecast improved so we motored north northwest 15 nautical miles to Žut Island’s Luka Žut and took a buoy. While Tilen and I were getting out the Williams from its garage I lost my footing on the wet teak decking and took a hard fall. I proceeded rather gracelessly to bounce into the water and lose my glasses to the seabed. I hauled myself out of the water and went below to change, Judith inspected the damage, some minor cuts. I left unsaid that the most hurtful bruising was to my ego.  We did, however, have an excellent dinner ashore at Fešta Restoran. 

Early Evening - Žut

In the morning, the forecast did not look good, so we decided to motor back to Šibenik, a four-and-a-half-hour trip to the southeast. After a light lunch, Tilen cleaned up the boat and Ivana was off for provisions while Judith and I settled for a glass of wine on the hotel’s terrace. After cleaning up, Judith and I had dinner alone at the D-Resort’s Art Restaurant. It was a terrible night, my back and ribs aching due to the fall, only able to sleep on my back. Adding to this misery, we experienced a 4.8 magnitude earthquake at 05:59 that morning, centered about 8-miles southeast of Šibenik. From our cabin, there seemed to have been a massive explosion, MISSI forcefully shaken for several seconds by the tremor. After a quick check of social media, the cause was confirmed.

South To Montenegro

It was my plan to work our way south to Montenegro’s Bay of Kotor, an estimated round trip of about two-weeks. After a morning walk, we cast off our lines and set sail to Maslinica on Šolta Island, about 30-nautical miles, and took a berth at the upscale Martinis Marchi Marina. It was thrilling to be under sail, a light lunch was underway. MISSI was secure in the marina by 16:30 and dinner was at the hilltop Restoran Sampjer, with charming views of the sunset settling over the nearby islets, floating peacefully in the pale blue water of the Adriatic.

We had been on MISSI one week. We left Maslinica on a south-easterly course to the Paklinski Islands and had a good sail on a broad reach for 20-nautical miles. We dropped anchor for lunch in the tranquil Luka Soline and then continued to Uvala Vinogradišće where we took a buoy and set out a stern line to another. We had a nice dinner at Restoran Zori, the professional staff remembering us – always pleasant.

We left Paklinski and continued southeast, spending one overnight in Vela Luka, on Korcula Island’s north-eastern side, at Marina Korkya; and another in the beautiful and tranquil bay of Polace on Mljet Island, surrounded by the national park. Here we took our first swim of the season, a type of baptism for us.

Mending a Fender Cover after Marina Korkya

We originally planned to stay the following night off Sipan Island in the quiet Uvala Maslinova, but the anchorage wasn’t perfect, and bay was quite shallow for us. After lunch there, we decided to motor to our last destination in Croatia, Cavtat. We dropped anchor since there are no bow mooring lines and Tilen reversed to the concrete quay and we secured our stern lines. After MISSI was settled, Judith and I took a quick walk, had a glass of prosecco, and went back to MISSI to shower. The four of us had dinner at Restaurant Bugenvila but it was not as good as I remembered.

The ensuing morning, Sunday June 13, we were up early, our local agent sorted out our customs paperwork to leave Croatia; this customs process was more complicated than usual because of the Corona virus. By 10:00 we were motoring southeast toward Montenegro. Leaving Croatian waters, we did not encounter any coastal islands so typical in the Croatian Adriatic, just a rugged, rocky coast.  After about 36 nautical miles we rounded Rt Ostra and entered the calmer waters of the Bay of Kotor, Montenegro. We had a quick bite aboard before entering the just opened Porto Novi Marina, a sister marina to Mandalina in Šibenik. Customs check in went smoothly.

Judith and I decided to take some time off the boat and checked into the property’s One & Only Hotel. Later, Tilen and Ivana joined us for dinner at Sabia, a creation of London restaurateur Giorgio Locatelli – the food excellent. After dinner just the two of us stopped by Perla Bistro and Bar for a last glass of wine and to listen to a lively quartet of Montenegrin musicians, Groupe Castel Nuovo.

 The next day we hired a hotel car and took a trip to the Ostrog Monastery, 2-hours to the northeast. A monastery of the Serbian Orthodox Church, it is situated against an almost vertical background, high in the large rock of Ostroška Greda. First founded in the 17th century, there is an older upper church with wonderful frescos and a lower monastery, built in 1824, that makes up most of the monks’ residences. Driving the winding and narrow road, the gleaming white structure is a sight to behold. 

Ostrog Monastery

Dinner was just Judith and me at the hotel’s Japanese themed Tapasake Restaurant. The food was interesting but service quirky, dishes coming out as they were ready producing a confused and rushed meal for us. We had a nice conversation with the young sommelier, Rafaela Pons, originally from Ecuador, the epitome of her profession. Best of all, Judith finally had her bath!

We had an early breakfast and again hired a hotel car for the day. Stopping in the town of Perast, we rented a skiff to visit of Our Lady of the Rocks and St. George Island, two islets in Kotor’s inner bay. Our Lady of the Rocks’ islet is man-made. Over the centuries local seamen returning from the sea laid rocks at the location until the small island was formed. A church was built to honor the Madonna and Child, completed in 1630. The adjacent St. George Island contains a 12th century Benedictine monastery. Both were charming jewels floating in the water. 

Our Lady of the Rocks

Judith - St. George Island (background)

Returning, we walked the delightful town of Perast, dating to 1336. 

Perast

Continuing, we reached the fortified old town of Kotor, nestled against the cliffs of Mt. Lovćen, and visited it’s many churches, the highlight was the Cathedral of Saint Tryphon, originally consecrated in 1166. Lunch was at Restoran Galion, a modern glassed-in spot looking out to the old city. Our food was excellent. We got back to the hotel, cleaned up after a long day and had a final dinner at Sabia.

St. Tryphon - Kotor

On June 16 we checked out of the One & Only and were back to the boat by nine. With Montenegrin customs cleared, we were off to Cavtat for our Croatian border check in. This finished, we motored for Mjlet Island and Luka Saplunara on its south-eastern side, taking a buoy in this nice bay and having dinner at Ante’s Place. We shared a wonderful 1.8-kilo Dentex with roasted vegetables. The young owner was a gracious host, a natural in the world of hospitality.

Our Dentex

 

Over the succeeding days we slowly worked our way north, stopping in Mljet’s tranquil Polace Bay, spending two nights in Vinogradišće Bay, with good dinners at Zori’s, and a night in Rogoznica’s well protected Uvala Soline. 

Swimming - Vinogradišće Bay

Tilen and Ivana were taking a well-earned weekend off starting June 25, but we still had a few days more to be out. So, leaving Rogoznica, we overshot Šibenik and took a buoy on Kakan Island’s Uvala Podkucina, this anchorage between Kakan and the twin Borovnjak Islands packed with boats. The next morning, we motored to Murter Bay where we anchored off the Marina Hramina. Tilen took Judith and I into shore for a walk on a hot, humid afternoon while he and Ivana shopped for some needed provisions. Dinner was at Murter Fine Food and good as usual. We sat on their terrace; I had the shrimp tempura – excellent.

We left Murter Bay after breakfast and motored around the northern end of the island heading southeast, then raising the sails for perhaps an hour of sailing. MISSI motored the final miles to Luka Zlarin, Tilen dropped the anchor, and all had lunch in a now a fresh breeze out of the southwest. Raising the anchor was a bit tricky in the wind, but we were soon underway again, reaching Šibenik’s St. Anthony’s Channel about three. Before docking, we stopped at the fuel station to refill MISSI’s three tanks. MISSI was back to her home base on June 23.

Tilen and Ivana were off for the weekend, Judith and I spent the time on MISSI, alone overnight on our boat for the first time since purchasing her. It was a pleasant time, I cooked a few meals, made my own cappuccinos, we organized a bit and had evenings in the cockpit, wine glasses raised, listening to Melody Gardot and other such soft jazz music piped though MISSI’s sound system. Almost heaven, I mused.

Almost Heaven

Here's a link showing our trip and ports of call:

https://web.sentinelmarine.net/shared/route/b3224ce6115d4f6f9424d051ef3a7c6c

 

Thoughts on Biden's Tax Proposals

 As the Biden administration approaches its one-hundred days milestone, there is a lot to cheer about. Vaccine uptake has been better than expectation and presidential communication has become more normative relative to the chaos of President Trump. The $1.9 trillion American Rescue Plan was passed and the $1.5 - $2.0 trillion American Jobs Plan will most likely pass through the budget reconciliation process. A part of the spending within this latest plan will be offset with tax rises on high income taxpayers and on corporations. The rationale of increasing taxes on the most affluent and raising business taxes certainly seems equitable and fair. 

But I believe parts of this new tax strategy are not the smartest way to go. There are many pitfalls in raising the capital gains tax rate for those with AGI (adjusted gross income) of over $408,000 from 28.8% (25.0% capital gains rate plus 3.8% Medicare surcharge) to as high as 43.4% (39.6% capital gains rate plus 3.8% Medicare surcharge). 

Economists already recognize that there is a strong “lock-in effect” on the portfolios of the top quintile of US households, which represent about 90% of total capital gains income (the top 1% represent 69% of total capital gains income). The “lock-in effect” is because our tax system discourages otherwise financially rational selling of appreciated assets, principally financial assets (i.e., stocks and bonds). This is because the tax, in effect, offsets any potential future losses. 

Here is a simple example using Vanguard’s Total Stock Market Index Fund ETF (Symbol “VTI”). Suppose you purchased a share on March 31, 2011 and were contemplating selling it 10-years hence, on March 31, 2021. Here’s a chart of tax outcomes based on current tax policy and the proposed policy:

Under current law, the owner of this VTI share would pay in tax 28.5% of the total capital gains income, but this also equates to 19% of his total proceeds. In other words, the future share price of VTI would have to decline more than 19% for him to be better off selling it, on an after tax basis.  

Under the proposed increase, VTI would have to decline more than 29% for him to be better off selling it, on an after tax basis. That is quite a market drop!

This is the "lock-in effect" in action. An investor might want to sell a stock that he thinks is over priced, but on an after tax basis, it may not make any sense to do so. Compounding this tenancy are two other factors. First, if this investor holds onto this stock until he dies, and bequeaths it to his heir, there is no capital gains tax ever paid.  Second, the heir does not inherit the share's original basis, rather his new adjusted basis is "stepped up" to the current price of VTI. The result of these two policies, if the asset is not sold in the investor's lifetime, is complete and total capital gains tax avoidance for both investor and heir. And as of my writing, a couple's estate must be over $11 million for there to be any estate tax paid.

One can easily see that these tax policies muddy up an investor's rational economic decisions about buying and selling. In the market in aggregate, they unintentionally discourage efficient redeployment of capital and rational rebalancing of portfolios. The effect is to prop up inflated values and discourage capital movement to more productive assets. 

Unfortunately at certain times investors must sell. These are times of extreme fear, or out of a need for liquidity. I am describing a panic, a market meltdown, a crash. I believe this tax policy will magnify market sell offs. The analogy is with a landslide. If conditions somehow restrain the eventual collapse, when the landslide eventually comes, it will be more catastrophic. Our bubbles will be bigger!

There are better ways for the Biden administration to raise these funds and mitigate the "lock-in effect." They estimate that this capital gains tax change would generate, in the best case,  approximately $350 billion over the decade. There are other ways to accomplish this. If the "stepped up" basis were eliminated, it would raise $105 billion over the decade, and lowering the estate tax threshold to $3.5 million ($7.0 million for couples), where in was in 2009, would raise $281 billion. These in total, would be $386 billion. The added benefit is that "lock-in effect" would diminish.

There are many other sensible ways to raise revenues. If income tax rates on the top two income tiers were raised one-percent (35% to 36%, 37% - 38%), which would only effect households with AGI greater than $408,000, $125 billion would flow to the treasury over the decade. 

There are other wonderful ideas out there, like retrospective taxation of capital gains income, which would raise the tax rate over increased holding periods. But in this political climate, it is best to keep things simple. Ultimately, however, America needs a "clean sheet of paper" approach to taxation, perhaps including VAT and carbon pricing, among other progressive solutions. 

A well regulated and competitive capitalist system has proven to be a superior mechanism for the productive deployment of resources. Our government should avoid tax regimes that inhibit its process. 

The Loyalty Problem

I think this country, perhaps the world, has become so dysfunctional because we forgot how complex the concept of loyalty can be. It seems a simple and unambiguous word. “Loyalty” is basically defined as: “the quality of giving or showing firm and constant support or allegiance.” In these last years I believe we have paradoxically become more loyal, but with too little thought or consideration of the recipient of our fealty, whether this be a person, institution, or idea.

Today’s more intense loyalty has come at the expense of judgment. Loyalty was never a substantive virtue alongside wisdom, courage, justice, and temperance. Loyalty requires prudence and vigilance in our assessment of the object of this support.

Blind and unconditional loyalty is unhealthy to relationships, families, leaders, institutions or causes because it removes judgement. Circumstance must guide decisions to be loyal. This is not easy work, it takes understanding, deliberation, evaluation, and study; it requires nuance. We must ask “what is the effect of my loyalty to this or that?” Remember, it is not true that good leaders foster intense loyalty, they inspire and promote principled behaviour. It is the bad leader who stresses loyalty above all else.

Context must be used in the calculus of “where does my loyalty lie?”  This isn’t hypocritical, it is moral, and it requires inner conviction. By way of example, on a small issue or minor piece of legislation a congressman or congresswoman might vote with his or her party; however, he or she should not thoughtlessly have allegiance to party for a destructive major legislative initiative or for entering a badly thought out foreign intervention. A worker might let a minor misbehaviour go but not a systemic fraud. Loyalty without context is idolatry. Loyalty without context has given us tyranny over the ages.

Bad leaders and corrupt institutions enforce loyalty over morality. Sadly, loyalty has become binary in our country today. James Carville, the acidic pundit, has said you can’t be loyal to us without “stickin’” it to them. In current times when a politician, educator or your neighbour tries to be non-binary, they are trashed as traitor by their side and unprotected and exploited by the opposite side.

We have been on this slippery slope for a decade or more, so this conduct has become normative. Partisanship is not the problem; it is the symptom of loyalty gone awry. We need to get our loyalties back to a healthy state. We all need to speak up, teach our children, talk with friends of different persuasions, and call out loyalty tests as malign. Whistleblowers need protection not disparagement.

Re-examining our concept of loyalty will go a long way in bringing back a more civil society.

 

"The Apprentice" 2.0

 

Donald Trump is a narcissist and emotionally unhinged, but in my opinion, he is very much a calculating individual. I think the President is confident he will lose the election and is now auditioning for his next act – producing a pilot if you will. The debate was his demo reel.

Think about it. If he were truly seeking re-election, even he would make a bit more effort to woo the undecided. But in the last month or two, Trump has done the exact opposite. He hosts super-spreader rallies, fails to condemn the violence of far right groups, mocks the CDC, the FBI and the FDA, continues with the unsupported claims of election fraud – the list goes on. He has turned up the rhetoric exponentially pandering to the base, not even disavowing Proud Boys while on stage. Watching the debate, he is cunning. This is not political Tourette’s Syndrome; this is a man honing his act, trying to make his future audience love him.

I think Trump’s calculation is that he can land on his feet and create a more virulent “Apprentice” vehicle, married to the “Bannon-sphere,” well to the right of Fox. Sadly, there is an audience: the 30-35% of ardent MAGA worshipers.  Trump’s only real commercial success was that of entertainer and promoter, bringing in almost $500 million with “The Apprentice” and it’s merchandising. He desperately needs a second act because he is deeply indebted. I’m sure the new gig will be a blockbuster for him; and continue to sow discord well after his term ends. I do not think he is ideological. His first and foremost concern is his self-interest. He does not have a “True North.” Trump is counting on a reincarnation to bail him out. That’s his game plan; country be damned. Let’s see what happens. 

I wonder what the name of the new show will be. I have a suggestion: “A ME RICA”.

Biden's Bridge

 Joe Biden, born November 20, 1942, is less than seven years older than me. Yet he seems of a different generation. Pondering this a bit more, I realize that Biden is not technically part of the Baby Boomers (1946 – 1965), as am I.

Biden is in the tail end of the Silent Generation, a small cohort within the birth years of 1928 – 1945. Parents of the Silent Generation were in the Greatest Generation (1901 – 1927); these mothers and fathers had lived the Great Depression and the World Wars. Biden exhibits an echo of his parent’s generational attitudes. He was of the time before meritocracy fully took hold of us, leaders were more humble stewards of position and power; perhaps feeling less entitled and less confident.

Our last four presidents, Clinton (born 1946), G.W. Bush (1946), Obama (1961) and Trump (1946) have been Boomers, governing for almost three decades (1993 – 2020). Of late, much of the progress and achievements of these Boomer governments have lost their lustre. More than a touch of hubris has been exposed.  The last of these, Trump, was a gargoyle of Boomer privilege, laying waste to his inheritance and making a mockery of merit.

Biden somehow comes across as “older”, with more grounded experience than I think I have. But this doesn’t really make much sense. Only 8% of living Americans are older than me; Biden’s percentage is 5%, so not a big difference. There must be something else at play. It is also no coincidence that the runner up for the nomination is also a Silent Generation member, Bernie Sanders, born in 1941. Please know that I’m not wishing to give the Silent Generation sainthood; they had their sins: segregation, misogyny – and let us not forget Vietnam. No rose coloured glasses are being worn.

But here is my point. Many studies have found that crowds have a certain uncanny wisdom, and we may be seeing this play out in the current election cycle – I hope so. Perhaps Biden is the bridge connecting the past Silent Generation’s humility and art of compromise with the hopes and dreams of the younger voting cohorts of late Boomers, Generation X, Millennials and Generation Z. Maybe this election is about slowly moving us sixty and seventy year olds out of the picture, and out of power. 

I’m hopeful that Biden and Harris put together an idealistic yet grounded group of smart younger people to find fresh solutions to climate, China, race, gender, and income disparity. I’m happy to put the last years of my life into their hands as they create a better future.

But first, let’s defeat Donald Trump on November 3.

Croatia Sailing: July - August 2020

Our second half of the season was more of a vagabond affair. After getting back to Šibenik on July 5th from our southern trip, we had a few days of bad weather with very strong winds out of the northeast. Tilen and I did a minor repair on the skipper's cabin hatch drain, we got in some provisions but generally lazed about. And on the 8th Tilen left for an extended weekend to attend his mom's birthday, Cornelia went to a multi-day safety course and Judith and I decided to spend a few days ashore so checked into one of the hotel's villas.

While at the hotel I chipped a tooth that required a quick repair at a dentist in Vodice, but finally on the 16th we motored to nearby Kakan, had lunch aboard, and then were off to Tijat and Tijascica Bay for the night. Of course, dinner was at Spirito's - I had two appetizers: a nice shrimp tempura followed by beef tartare. In the morning we headed back to Šibenik.

After another day in the marina we took the long trip to Vis, motoring for the first two hours and then sailing on a broad reach in a steady wind of 16 - 20 knots; we used the traditional rigging for the genoa and MISSI performed admirably. We secured to a buoy in Kut and took the Williams to dinner at the lovely Villa Kaliopa, surrounded by it's 16th century gardens. After a glass of wine aboard, it was easily to sleep.

Villa Kaliopa

In the morning I did some maneuvering practice before leaving under sail to St. Clement Island and the Bay of Vinogradiŝĉe. While setting the shorelines I unfortunately ran the Williams over the line, which was sucked into the jet intake; wrapping around the shaft. Tilen and I worked on dislodging it for hours but to no avail. This certainly put a damper on our evening dinner with Tilen's family at Zori's. They had taken a charter for a few weeks and we had planned to meet here. That evening I dozed off annoyed for hacking the shorelines!

We arranged to meet the Williams dealer in Strobrec Cove, south of Split. We anchored, had lunch and rendezvoused with the technicians who towed our stricken tender to their base. Luckily they were able to remove the line and we had our Williams roaring back to us in about an hour. It was then motoring again to our overnight off Drevenik Veli. We anchored and laid out shorelines (I swam to shore this time). Cornelia prepared a nice dinner onboard.

Drvenik Veli

The following day, July 22nd, we had a swim and some sun. In the afternoon we were off to Rogonzncia, taking a buoy off Kopara, deep in the bay and away from the marina. It was a peaceful spot. In the morning  Tilen took us ahore for a long walk around the rest of the bay and after lunch motored back to Šibenik, once again disappointed by the wind. We tied up in a strong crosswind, cleaned up, had dinner and were soon asleep. The next two days we were in our marina; weather was not cooperating.

On July 26 we were off again, with a nice sail on a close reach to Žirje and Stupica Vela, taking a buoy for the night. Lunch and some swimming followed, but the day turned cloudy with a strong west breeze. We left early the next morning for the Kornati Chain and the island of Ravni Zakan, anchoring nearby the pontoon of Zakan Restoran.We had an excellent dinner and some interesting people watching since there were a number of large motor yachts tied up at the restaurant's dock.

Zakan Restoran

Zakan Restoran
Judith's "no pictures" face

We had a nice morning in the cove with some swimming and sunbathing. It was then off motoring to Murter Island, anchoring in the shallow bay off the marina. We sometimes plan our interrary around our stomachs - we were once again dining at Fine Food Murter, greeted as usual by the lovely proprietor Gracia. 

The next day, we had lunch off nearby Cape Mala Zecia and afterward motored up the narrow channel between Pasman Island and the mainland to Biograd na Moru and the Kornati Marina. Dinner was onboard; another wonderful Cornelia creation.

We took about a week off to attend to some dental issues, fun getting old! It was then back to S/Y MISSI. I arranged our flight back to London, but we still had a bit of time to take some nice day trips.

There was a good sail west on a broad reach in a fresh breeze to Mali Borovnjak off Kakan Island. We stopped for a nice lunch but decided not to go for a swim; a bit windy. At 3:30 we upped anchor and motored home, encountering some rain on the way. Luckily we avoided the strong gusts that were popping up and safely got onto our pontoon in the marina without incident. 

Mali Borovnjak

On our last weekend, we had a nice trip to Žirje Island and its tranquil bay of Stupica. We had a bit of sailing, then motored for the balance of the trip. A lunch followed aboard, and some sun and swimming afterward. Around four, we left the bay and headed northeast on a broad reach in 16 - 20 knots of wind. It was a great last sail, MISSI pushing over 9 knots at times. We were through the Šibenik channel around six, stopped at the fuel station to replenish some diesel and tied up the yacht for the last time this season.

S/Y MISSI's Croatian flag off Stupica

It was a wonderful 9-weeks and 752 nautical miles of adventure on the water and away from the worries coivd-19. We left for London on August 10 - back to real life on land.

Croatia Sailing: June 8 - July 8 2020

This wasn’t the summer I was expecting as we celebrated the New Year at the Four Seasons in Budapest. But by March and with the outbreak of covid-19, our plans for 2020 were in ruins. We weren’t sure if or where we could travel, or if there would be a sailing season at all. Thankfully, the stars lined up for us and we reached Croatia on June 8 and boarded S/Y MISSI in Šibenik that evening.

The yacht was in perfect order thanks to Tilen and Cornelia, the side curtains we had ordered for the cockpit looked neat and crisp. It was wonderful to be back.

This post will cover our exploits for our first month, but we expect to be here until at least mid-August. We had two main outings: a quick four-day trip north, and then a longer 19-day journey south to Croatia’s border with Montenegro. 

NORTHERN TRIP
After an unexpected repair to the freshwater water pump we got underway on June 11. Our first port of call was the northern end of Murter Island, anchoring in the lovely bay near Marina Hramina. It was a pleasant first day with a bit of sailing but mostly motoring these 21 nm ("nautical mile = ~1.15 miles"). Dinner was onshore at Fine Food Murter, always good. Judith and I realized we hadn’t had a restaurant meal since March 4!

S/Y MISSI - Murter Island

The next day it was off to the close by bay off Cape Ovnja for lunch, then a great sail tacking up to Zut Island, weaving our way through small islands to Podrazanj Cove and the docks of Festa Restaurant. We had a lively dinner there, along with obscene desserts and too much wine.

The next day, Saturday the 13th, we took a walk along the coast toward ACI Marina Zut. By 11 we were off motoring to Kornati Island, cutting through the very narrow and shallow Passage Proversa Mala and then mooring in the well protected Mir Cove. After lunch Judith and I took the Williams to shore and visited Jezero Mir in Telašćica National Park, a salt water inland lake. About 10 minutes into the 40 minute walk, we encountered a snake. From this point on, Judith armed herself with a large rock. The scenery was nevertheless stunning. The balance of this wonderful day was spent swimming and sunbathing. Dinner was on board.

Jezero Mir - Salt Water Lake

Judith - Armed with her Rock!

Telašćica National Park

We were up to a nice morning and an early start. After some hesitation, we decided to take the long trip back to Šibenik. Rain was forecast for tomorrow, and strong Bora winds for Tuesday. We left Telašćica National Park by the wider channel past the Svjetionik Lighthouse and MISSI was out to the open Adriatic by 10:00. We sailed on a broad reach southeast in choppy seas with the Kornati Islands to our port side for about two hours and then found a good line through the islands north of Lunga and Vela Smokvica into the calmer channel. Lunch was under way. In better wind, we set a course west to the north of Tijet Island and then southwest along it’s western coast. The wind continued to veer in favour of our course for the entire sail. We dropped sails before entering St. Stephen’s Channel and were at the marina around five o’clock. We logged about 100 nm.

Svjetionik Lighthouse

For the next few nights Judith and I stayed at the adjacent D-Resort Hotel awaiting a break  in the weather. It also allowed for a needed generator service.

Here is a link to an interactive map of our southern trip from our onboard system (pretty cool):

https://web.sentinelmarine.net/shared/route/28d7eacb8f52499e87f2bee19c1a83db 

SOUTHERN TRIP
On June 17 we started our trip south, first sailing southeast close hauled in a fresh breeze to Primoŝten where we anchored and had lunch. We then backtracked on a broad reach northwest to our first overnight off Tijet Island, taking a buoy in the sheltered harbor of Tijascica Bay. We took the Williams to Spirito's Summer Place for a reunion with Gregor, the affable manager, and his marvelous food and wine. After full bellies and much laughter, we were safely back on board. A very good start!

Judith & Me - Spirito's Summer Place

After breakfast we were off southeast on a broad reach. The wind was particularly good for two hours or so, but the last hour it died and left only the heavy following sea. We took a respite from this for lunch, stopping in a protected cove off Ražanj. It was then back out to the sea for the 2-hour motor to Solta Island and Maslinica – to the Marina Martinis Marchi. We did get out for a walk along the riva before dinner at the hotel; we all shared a nice St. Pierre (John Dory) and had desserts. A last glass of wine on the boat and we were soon asleep.

Marina Martinis Marchi

Waking to a nice morning, we noted that S/Y MISSI was christened one year ago in Canet, France - happy 1st birthday! After breakfast and walk, we motored in calm wind to the southern side of St.Clement Island, the largest in the Pakleni Chain, and the small but busy Bay of Vinogradišče. We grabbed a wonderful buoy and set our shorelines. The water in the bay is warm and crystal clear; swimming and sunbathing followed shortly after arrival. We took the Williams to dinner at Toto’s.

Strong Bora wind was forecast for the next few days, so it was decided to stay here until the weather improved. The next few days were lazy ones: we walked over to the north side of the island and Palmižana Marina, lingered over coffees, read, swam and bathed in the sun. Cornelia made a wonderful dinner one of these nights, beef tenderloin accompanied by a magnum of 2009 Korta Katarina Plavac Mali “Ruben’s Private Reserve” (483/486); nice jazz playing over our sound system. 

On our other two evenings here we dined at Zori Restaurant, a real delight and surprise - excellent food, professional staff and a sophisticated abieance. A little rain eventually came on our last night, making way for clearing weather so we could move on.

Approaching Zori Restaurant

Sunset - Bay of Vinogradišče

On Tuesday, June 23, we retrieved the shorelines and were on our way again, motoring three hours southwest to Vela Luka on Korĉula Island. We explored the town while Tilen cleaned up the yacht. Vela Luka has a nice “U” shaped seafront, or "riva" in Croatian. We were berthed for the night at the new Korkyra Marina, some parts not still not open because of the virus. We stopped for drinks at their outdoor bar; a nice dinner was on board. 

Vela Luka

We were up early and had another long walk. Before leaving, Tilen and I set up our new light wind foresail, a Code 0, along with it's electric furler. Motoring about an hour around the southeastern end of Korĉuka, we anchored in Tri Luke for lunch. Afterward, our plan was to sail to southwestern Korĉuka for our overnight and the Code 0 performed well on it's first outing, moving us at 6 knots in the 9 - 10 knot breeze. The forecast wasn’t favourable for our original choice for our overnight, so we backtracked about an hour west to Zaklopatica Bay on the northern coast of Lastovo Island with its two mooring buoy system. It's a very pretty and protected cove; we had stayed here last year.  

The New Code 0

We were up early and planned for a long motoring day. Our destination was Cape Vratnicki on the easternmost part of Mljet Island. We had lunch on the way and stopped at Odysseus Cave for a swim inside while Tilen stayed aboard and circled. 

Odysseus Cave - Mljet Island

Afterward, we continued to Vratnicki, getting there about four. The mooring buoy was not the best, but with some help from an inept but friendly swimmer, MISSI was secured. Tilen and I eventually strung another line to shore from the stern. The cove was worth the effort, a beautiful and tranquil spot; Judith and I went for another swim. Dinner was ashore at Konoba Stermasi, a family run restaurant. We had some nice appetizers of local cheese and swordfish carpaccio; followed by goat peka – excellent. 

Vratnicki Cove - MISSI's Spreader Lights

We were off early motoring again east southeast with calm winds to Cavtat with lunch underway. This will be our most southerly destination for this trip, any further we would be entering Montenegro. We anchored with shorelines to the riva. Cavtat is a small, peaceful bay and town and Judith and I decided to walk the bay on this very hot late afternoon. Dinner was at Bugenvila Restaurant, a Michelin mentioned eatery; we had been here five years ago. The food was excellent but the service from the husband and wife owners was somewhat lacking; I am sure covid-19 has made them cautious about hiring. 

Approaching Cavtat

In the morning we took a long walk around the peninsula, both saying this could be somewhere we could live. Afterward, we met Claudio, an affable Italian owner of the S/Y “Mrs Seven,” a 100’ Southern Wind sloop tied up a few spots away from us. He was extremely interested in MISSI and we gave each other tours of our respective boats. He was  a character out of a Hemingway novel, completely full of himself, but a delight nonetheless. 

We left Cavtat without issue heading back northwest, skirting Dubrovnik for a quick photo shoot and then stopping for lunch and a swim at Lopud Island. Continuing northwest, our destination was Slano on the mainland and the ACI marina.  Dinner was at Gastro Vista Restaurant, high in the hills overlooking the tranquil Luka Slano. It is a family affair, grandfather picked us up, father,Toni, was owner-chef, wife and daughters, servers and clean up staff. The food and wine were fresh and wonderful. Covid-19 has been bad for their business. They only opened for us, since they had no other guests. Toni, a big guy, drove us back to the marina, all the while expressing his political views on the US, the virus, and our current demonstrations for "Black Lives Matter" - well informed to say the least.

Tilen, Cornelia, Judith & me
View from Gastro Vista Restaurant

Slano

We left Slano and motored a short one-hour to a nice bay between Przina and Olipa Islands for some sun and an early lunch. It was then on to Mljet Island’s north coast, we took a buoy at Prozurska Bay. It was an idyllic spot with the sea over 25°C. Judith and I were in and out of the water, with more sunbathing under a cloudless sky, cooled by a pleasant breeze. Cornelia made a nice shrimp pasta for dinner; too much wine again!

Next morning we were up and off to Korĉula. We opened the Code 0 for a while, but by noon winds became calm and variable and we motored for the last part of the journey. We anchored in Korcula Bay for a swim and some sun – it was another hot day, over 30°C. Early evening we motored the short way to ACI Marina - Korĉula for our overnight. Dinner was in the old town at Lesic Dimitri's Restaurant, now a 1-Star Michelin. We had the five course tasting menu - it was divine.

Korĉula Town

Lesic Dimitri Palace

We left ACI marina and motored west along the Peljeski Canal, past the tip of Pelješac and into open water. Eventually the wind picked up to 12 knots out of the west, but we had less than an hour to our destination. We arrived to Šćedro Island off the south coast of Hvar Island. We were to this lovely isolated island last July. We anchored in the same cove and took two lines ashore to secure the stern. It was then sun and swimming in 25°C clear water for the balance of the afternoon. Dinner was aboard - this is my favorite spot in the Adriatic - serene cannot half describe it. 

Šćedro Island - Perfect!

After a last swim in Šćedro and taking in shorelines we motored west southwest. Eventually cruising along the picturesque southern and rocky coast of Vis Island, we took in the views of its many caves and old military fortifications. MISSI took a buoy in the bay of Komiza, a bucolic town on the western side of the island. Dinner was in town at Konoba Barba, roosterfish peka – excellent. After dinner I accidentally dropped the safety key for the Williams into the water along the dock. Embarrassed I felt obligated to take a dunk over the side to try to retrieve it. I missed it but a waiter snagged it with a fishhook - problem solved.

Going Back to MISSI - Slightly Wet

View of Komiza from Konoba Barba

We left Vis under motor with little wind. We took a break on Hvar Island in Duga Bay for lunch and a swim. We continued on to Starigrad, a deep bay on the northern side of Hvar. It is a lively town, we moored along the riva. After a bit of a walk, dinner was on board and we had an early evening.

Riva in Starigrad

We left Starigrad after our walk and had a long day beating northwest, at times under reef, in a 12 -14 knot breeze. We were over eight hours tacking our way up the coast, arriving to Marina Frapa in Rogoznica after 7:00 in the evening. For me it was a wonderful day of sailing. Dinner was uninspired at the marina restaurant and after another glass of wine aboard, sleep came easily.

After breakfast we walked the riva to the old town and church Our Lady of the Chapel, its cornerstone laid in 1776. Then we were off to Tijet for our overnight, a much shorter motoring trip. Arriving in Tijascica Bay, we took two buoys because of MISSI's length. It was then swimming and sun. Dinner was at Spirito’s and wonderful,we had a different table with a nice view of MISSI. I had tempura shrimp as appetizer and a main course of grilled tuna, deliciously rare as I like it.

S/Y MISSI - Tijascica Bay

We were up to a nice day and got an early start back to Šibenik, less than an hour away. Weather was expected to deteriorate in the afternoon, with high winds expected. Before heading into our berth, we visited the fuel station to replenish MISSI’s diesel. Finally, with lines buttoned up, we had a light lunch aboard. By 3:00 p.m. the expected wind arrived. Dinner was also onboard, a nice steak and shrimp combination.

19 days out in total; it was a wonderful adventure south. I now have more memories locked away to be unpacked some cold evening this coming winter.

Here is a link to an interactive map of our northern trip from our onboard system:

https://web.sentinelmarine.net/shared/route/f573538cc6d94924b7d494b29477db40